Car sat for 3 months, now won't start! Help!

use a volt meter and see what you batt has.

Assuming in ran/started fine before storage, I agree with the previous poster - I suspect a NEW battery may be required, rather than charging the old one. You can haul the battery to Sears or AutoZone and let them load test it to see if in fact it's shot.

get the battery tested, or just replace it. If you don't have enough cca (cold cranking amps), your motor probably will not fire..........hotwheels

are you getting a full connection on the terminals happened to my car i had to clean the terminals they were all gunked up from sitting.

Kabuki_notch said:

are you getting a full connection on the terminals happened to my car i had to clean the terminals they were all gunked up from sitting.

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I had that problem too, it helps to get new connectors.

Anyway, if the engine turns strong, like as strong as it did when you had it running, then I suggest you go out and get a can of quick start. That'll fire it up in no time.

If the car sat for a few months without running it every week or so, you may want to take the spark plugs out and give a shot of oil or WD40 in the cylinders (helps if there is any compression problems from dry rings). Remember the four things to check to see if an engine will run.
1. Air
2. Fuel
3. Compression
4. Spark

If you have all four your engine should start right up.

Just thought of this after I hit "post reply". Is it possible that you could have gotten some water or condensation in your gas tank? 'Cause water doesn't ignite so good. Some "dry gas" in the tank and a shot of ether (starting fluid) in the intake wouldn't hurt.

i agree, get it load tested to see if it's holding charge.

illwood said:

Just thought of this after I hit "post reply". Is it possible that you could have gotten some water or condensation in your gas tank? 'Cause water doesn't ignite so good. Some "dry gas" in the tank and a shot of ether (starting fluid) in the intake wouldn't hurt.

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This is where I'd be looking since you said the car is cranking. Throw a bottle of "heat" gas dryer in the tank and spray some starting fluid into the intake.

In fact, if there's room in the tank, some 'fresh' gas will probably help as well. It doesn't take long for the gas to cause problems.

How old is the gasoline in the car?

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if present.
B.) Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the black 10 pin connector.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

my car sat 6 months without starting and fired right up (after building the motor again) and ran perfectly fine with the gas it did have.