Car shuts off after its warm!!

eaglemustang

New Member
Sep 21, 2008
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I have a 1994 Mustang GT 5.0 H.O. About two months ago it started throwing a spell where it would not start after it was warm. I had a fuel pump replaced and still the same. The dealership checked the ignition module on the bench with heat on it and it tested fine. I then had them to replace the ignition and the tumblers and it had no more spells for about 3 weeks. Well its started back and you can only drive it for 3 or 4 miles and it shuts down like you turn it off. I have replaced the coil, EEC and it still does the same. Someone told me that something in the distributor could be going bad.
 
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welcome to :SNSign:

sound's like a bad dizzy,or rather the PIP inside the dizzy.grab a reman dizzy and you should be all good.much simpler to replace the dizzy as an assembly,than the PIP inside(you would need a press to get the dizzy drive gear off).

i would check for spark to be sure.get a spark tester and put it inline between the coil and dizzy,check for spark.i would also pull the codes.

i had the same problem.the car would cut off while driving.had a hard time starting.sometimes it would start and drive fine til one day it would not start at all.i replace many thing's like you did til the guy's here educated me about the dizzy.replaced it and now it runs fine:nice:
 
It is not getting fire I checked yesterday but the dealer said when it goes throw this spell the injectors have power, but no pulse. I just tried remand ECU & new coil still they same thing. This I think it has a short around the ignition box under the dash. They are going to unhook the ECU and hook up a 60 pin connector and check for power and grounds, maybe they will find something. Thanks
 
Again, I would be checking the PIP signal. If you/they use a scope, it should look like a rough square wave.

If you have a heat-induced lack of spark and injector pulsing (and both the coil and injectors have VPWR to them during this time), and your TFI tests fine when this occurs, the PIP is likely bad (as Davis3 noted). If you have a spare dizzy and 10 minutes, you could swap it out and give it a shot (or just have a new PIP put in your dizzy - it's not labor-intensive for someone who has done one before). Reman'd dizzies are kind of a crapshoot because the PIP is not always replaced (a blind hole where the original roll pin was located is a clue that the PIP was replaced).

Good luck.
 
what do you guys mean by dizzy and PIP.


Well i had the same problem, im not sure what these guys are talking about when they say dizzy and PIP, but mine was the magnetic pickup inside the distributor. It went bad. it would work fine untill it got warm and then it would malfuntion. Not sure if this is your problem but its a place to look.
 
Ok, Thanks They say the pip is working based on a test. They seem to think there is a short under the dash. They are hooking it up to a tester by the EEC 60 pin to check for grounds and power sources. I'm going to have them try a new pip. Thanks again!
 
what do you guys mean by dizzy and PIP.


Well i had the same problem, im not sure what these guys are talking about when they say dizzy and PIP, but mine was the magnetic pickup inside the distributor. It went bad. it would work fine untill it got warm and then it would malfuntion. Not sure if this is your problem but its a place to look.

PIP = Profile Ignition Pick-up, or ignition stator.
Dizzy = distributor.

You can see that we are all talking about the same animals here.