At first I thought it was my old stock fuel pump so I put in a new 190lph but the problem is still there.
It feels as if the timing is WAY off. I set the timing at 14 with the bypass unplugged but as soon as I plug it in, the computer will advance the timing to 20 something at idle and will go up to 42 at 3000rpm??? WTF. I put it at 10 degrees for now. HOWEVER that could be my timing marks, I may have missed TDC because spark timing problems would show when the engine is cold too.
The kicker is that when the engine is warm, it will be VERY hard to start as if the starter is having a hard time to turn the engine, it will start at 1/4 turn just the same but it feels like the engine is siezed. Starter is NEW, battery is new and I have a new 3G alternator. That 1/4 turn is a very slow turn.
I'm starting to think it's a bigger problem like my lifters collapsing when the oil gets hot, not enough pressure in there to open the valves like they should. I made the mistake of not getting NEW lifters when I put the engine back together.
It doesn't help that I have dual valve springs good for up to 560 of lift and I still have the darn stock cam and old lifters.
DO you think the high spring rate + low cam + old high mileage lifters + real thin and warm engine oil could cause the valves to not open fully and more importantly on time?
It feels as if the timing is WAY off. I set the timing at 14 with the bypass unplugged but as soon as I plug it in, the computer will advance the timing to 20 something at idle and will go up to 42 at 3000rpm??? WTF. I put it at 10 degrees for now. HOWEVER that could be my timing marks, I may have missed TDC because spark timing problems would show when the engine is cold too.
The kicker is that when the engine is warm, it will be VERY hard to start as if the starter is having a hard time to turn the engine, it will start at 1/4 turn just the same but it feels like the engine is siezed. Starter is NEW, battery is new and I have a new 3G alternator. That 1/4 turn is a very slow turn.
I'm starting to think it's a bigger problem like my lifters collapsing when the oil gets hot, not enough pressure in there to open the valves like they should. I made the mistake of not getting NEW lifters when I put the engine back together.
It doesn't help that I have dual valve springs good for up to 560 of lift and I still have the darn stock cam and old lifters.
DO you think the high spring rate + low cam + old high mileage lifters + real thin and warm engine oil could cause the valves to not open fully and more importantly on time?