car troubles, HELP please

sarges_heroes20

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Jul 9, 2004

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Nov 14, 2008

#21

• Nov 14, 2008

• #21

sphinx said:

just means you have a dohc instaed of sohc. or instaed of 95 hp you have 110.....

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So twice as many things to go wrong with it.

sphinx said:

lick your finger and then wipe it on the timing belt, then get in and turn the car over.....see if the wet spot moves

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Okay, I had to use a wet towel but end result was the same. it started drizzeling here during the test (still is) and I am pretty shure it moved. wet spot was gone.
now I am going to get some sleep. Thank you for your help.

 

sphinx

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Nov 14, 2008

#22

• Nov 14, 2008

• #22

I figured it would have COP.....Mitchell says "distributorless" so I guess not.. if you can't get a plug out I've used a bolt shoved into the boot and just set it so that it was about an 1/8 inch away from the engine. The noise throws me too..... almost makes me think the timing belt did jump teeth......

 

sarges_heroes20

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Nov 14, 2008

#23

• Nov 14, 2008

• #23

MustangLX-5.0 said:

So this is an Escort ZX2 ? They used the same 2.0 on the Focus also.

It's cranking but not turning over...correct? What was that noise you were talking about? Said it sounds like starter gear grinding or something.

Is there anything else unusual you notice while turning ignition? Also,as a rule out test,pull a plug wire + plug.Turn over with plug in wire..out of engine.Ground side of plug to block.check to see if you got spark.

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Yes this is the escort ZX2 w/ 2.0 DOHC motor. Don't know about focus, really hope I never get into one of those things.

The starter motor will turn the engine over, Fuel spits out of the shrader valve, and can't check the spark plugs. my socket set does not have deep wells and they are way down there. I have tried before this time to get them out, deep well sockets are the only way it can be done.
While turning ignition on every thing sounds and acts the same as its usual start up routine. These engines shake a bit when turning over and make a real ruckus. all of that is same, just no coming to life after a sec. or 2.

 

sarges_heroes20

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Nov 14, 2008

#24

• Nov 14, 2008

• #24

Ohh, there was a plastic box on the + post of battery which was broke many years ago. just + power leads to varouse things the car cant seem to run with out. I have them mashed down by those cheap replacement battery posts u get at auto parts stores. Has worked for years just fine save it gets that build up on em some thing bad.
I keep a battery post cleener and some wrenches with the car just to clean that, and have done it. didn't do much but wake up the electrical systems some, not nearly bad enough to cause the problem.

I don't have a clue what the heck is wrong with this peice of junk.

 

sphinx

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Nov 14, 2008

#25

• Nov 14, 2008

• #25

Check your PM

 

MustangLX-5.0

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Nov 14, 2008

#26

• Nov 14, 2008

• #26

Figure anything out on this yet?

 

sarges_heroes20

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#27

• Nov 14, 2008

• #27

Im back, went to sleep since I had been up all night with this problem. Still no idea what is wrong.

 

sarges_heroes20

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#28

• Nov 14, 2008

• #28

bump

 

MustangLX-5.0

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#29

• Nov 14, 2008

• #29

Well I dont think it skipped timing.If it had ,it would either run horrible or attempt to run and backfire horribly bad.So I wouldn't think it would be that.

Also,the shrader valve on the fuel rail is before the pressure regulator.You may want to have a look at the regulator.Do you have a vacuum pump?

 

sarges_heroes20

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Nov 14, 2008

#30

• Nov 14, 2008

• #30

MustangLX-5.0 said:

Well I dont think it skipped timing.If it had ,it would either run horrible or attempt to run and backfire horribly bad.So I wouldn't think it would be that.

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Finally some good news

MustangLX-5.0 said:

Also,the shrader valve on the fuel rail is before the pressure regulator.You may want to have a look at the regulator.Do you have a vacuum pump?

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vacuum pump? pressure reg.? err um Im getting lost here.

 

Therian

The Highlander

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Nov 14, 2008

#31

• Nov 14, 2008

• #31

Have you checked the timing marks to ensure they are still lined up?

Aside from that, it sounds like you don't have spark

 

sarges_heroes20

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#32

• Nov 14, 2008

• #32

I have not checked timing marks, cant get the plastic cover off very far and dont have the manual telling me what i should be seeing.

This may sound stupid but how do I get spark back??

 

TheRican

Emo Extraordinaire

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Nov 14, 2008

#33

• Nov 14, 2008

• #33

Spark plugs?

 

sphinx

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#34

• Nov 14, 2008

• #34

I think since we seem to be going around in circles. The easiest thing to do would be to pull the codes on the computer. There are a couple places here in town that rent/loan them or you could buy one.
You don't by chance have an aftermarket alarm installed do you?

 

LaserSVT

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#35

• Nov 14, 2008

• #35

Ugh, its not the timing belt and the noise was eaither non existant or irrelevent to the issue at hand IMO.
Sounds like your cam angle sensor went bad. I see it alot on DOHC 4 bangers that just quit while driving and no other symptoms.

 

sarges_heroes20

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#36

• Nov 14, 2008

• #36

LaserSVT said:

Ugh, its not the timing belt and the noise was eaither non existant or irrelevent to the issue at hand IMO.
Sounds like your cam angle sensor went bad. I see it alot on DOHC 4 bangers that just quit while driving and no other symptoms.

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where is this cam angle sensor located?

 

LaserSVT

Got FB banned again for saying nards

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#37

• Nov 14, 2008

• #37

sarges_heroes20 said:

where is this cam angle sensor located?

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Somewhere behind the timing chain cover. I think its really down low but that may be Kia I am thinking of. Anyway that engine can take a beating if its the same one the Escape came with and I am pretty sure it is. The timing belt is supposed to be replaced every 60,000 miles. That being said I know a guy with an 02 that has 456,000 miles and has broken his timing belt many times with no problems, no interference engine FTMFW!

Anyway the sensor will be on one of the gears for the timing belt. Its a magnetic pick up sensor. Too bad you reset the ECU cause you could of read the code. It may have thrown one again but there is one there so the best idea is to scan the puter. Dont go throwing parts at it. Buy a scanner from wal mart or Autozone, run the scan then return it

That was free BTW, you dont even have to tip

 

sarges_heroes20

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#38

• Nov 14, 2008

• #38

hardy har har!!

 

sarges_heroes20

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Nov 14, 2008

#39

• Nov 14, 2008

• #39

better news just came in. Dad is bringing down the extra car mom used to drive (she bought a new suv thingy) and I get to drive a neon till mine is fixed. back to work on monday.

 

sphinx

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Nov 15, 2008

#40

• Nov 15, 2008

• #40

Cool but you still need to fix your ride. Answer these for me

1. fuel pressure, when you test at the shrader valve, does it just seep out or seem to be under pressure and want to spray everywhere?
2. How much fuel is in the tank,was it empty when it died?
3. When you trying to start it does it seem to turn over faster and easier than normal?