Well, regardless, I think I'm gonna replace the fuel filter, if nothing else for maintenance. Anyone think as to why the IAC going bad would cause a pop noise?
Car will not stay running..
- Thread starter ProCharger GT
- Start date
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Ya fuel filter is cheaper then IAC. SO Ya i would change that.
If your car idles fine as long as you give it little gas, then i would think its IAC tho
If your car idles fine as long as you give it little gas, then i would think its IAC tho
When you checked for vacuum leaks, how did you do so??
I assume you have a logger, or at least a way to check your Injector Duty cycle. This is one of the best ways to determine if you're over-running your fuel system. You can always check fuel pressure at the fuel rail..
Part of me thinks it's not your fuel.. I am leaning towards plugs.. What plugs/gap do you have in there now??
IAC isn't a bad idea, since they can just die.. Too bad of where it's at...
JT
I assume you have a logger, or at least a way to check your Injector Duty cycle. This is one of the best ways to determine if you're over-running your fuel system. You can always check fuel pressure at the fuel rail..
Part of me thinks it's not your fuel.. I am leaning towards plugs.. What plugs/gap do you have in there now??
IAC isn't a bad idea, since they can just die.. Too bad of where it's at...
JT
When I give the car gas, the RPM's don't really move, and it dies.
As far as checking for vacuum leaks, I did a visual inspection. Unfortunately I do not have a logger setup yet, however as previously mentioned the car was dyno'd w/ a logger (and new injectors) not more than 200 miles ago. With the CPR fuel rails on there, I'd have to check where the Schrader valve is.
Plugs are NGK TR6's and are gapped at .032, if my memory serves correct.
As far as checking for vacuum leaks, I did a visual inspection. Unfortunately I do not have a logger setup yet, however as previously mentioned the car was dyno'd w/ a logger (and new injectors) not more than 200 miles ago. With the CPR fuel rails on there, I'd have to check where the Schrader valve is.
Plugs are NGK TR6's and are gapped at .032, if my memory serves correct.
Good call, I'll be sure to add that to my list of things to check. I'll post an update on Saturday after I take a look at everything.
Thanks for the replies all!
hotmustang331
Active Member
You dont have a fuel pressure gauge???? Thats the first gauge I bought for my A piller....and currently the only one hahahaha.
But if your fuel filter is stock, then thats NOT good...well depending on miles.
I hear they are good for around 40K on N/A engines, and have heard people reccomend a change every 10K on S/C applications. I doubt its the cause though, because your computer will try and keep a certain amount of rail pressure at all times, and being that it was tuned not long ago....it would have been a restriction and probably would have not supplied enough fuel for 492RWHP.
I say check the plugs....bad plugs can cause popping. My 66 is now popping and is very diffacult to start, and its the plugs....this also happened just ONE DAY and it just was super hard to crank, and when it did fire it was popping pretty bad.
And my dads GMC had a plug crack on it...same thing, popping when revved and not running correctly.
But if your fuel filter is stock, then thats NOT good...well depending on miles.
I hear they are good for around 40K on N/A engines, and have heard people reccomend a change every 10K on S/C applications. I doubt its the cause though, because your computer will try and keep a certain amount of rail pressure at all times, and being that it was tuned not long ago....it would have been a restriction and probably would have not supplied enough fuel for 492RWHP.
I say check the plugs....bad plugs can cause popping. My 66 is now popping and is very diffacult to start, and its the plugs....this also happened just ONE DAY and it just was super hard to crank, and when it did fire it was popping pretty bad.
And my dads GMC had a plug crack on it...same thing, popping when revved and not running correctly.
Well, I have an update for everyone:
I changed out the fuel filter, and I saw some black junk come out of the end that runs from the filter to the fuel rails. The new fuel filter definitely helped the car turn over, and idle, but this resulted in another problem.
The car seemed to be misfiring a little, and it was showing that it had 0 vaccuum - if I gave it gas, it showed it had vaccuum - so I'm taking that when a line had popped off before, the vaccuum line for the boost gauge was incorrectly re-connected....no big deal. However, after running for a couple of minutes, the passenger side cylinder head started making this god awful knocking noise - I immediately turned the car off. I thought it might just be because the plugs were fouled on it and we wanted to check to see which cylinders were misfiring, but I don't want to risk breaking anything (i.e. a valve spring), dropping a valve, and ruining this new block that has less than 500 miles on it. I'm taking it to the place that tuned my car to see if they can hook it up to a diagnostic machine to see if it's something simple to fix, or something that's about to take a **** and kill my car along with it.
I changed out the fuel filter, and I saw some black junk come out of the end that runs from the filter to the fuel rails. The new fuel filter definitely helped the car turn over, and idle, but this resulted in another problem.
The car seemed to be misfiring a little, and it was showing that it had 0 vaccuum - if I gave it gas, it showed it had vaccuum - so I'm taking that when a line had popped off before, the vaccuum line for the boost gauge was incorrectly re-connected....no big deal. However, after running for a couple of minutes, the passenger side cylinder head started making this god awful knocking noise - I immediately turned the car off. I thought it might just be because the plugs were fouled on it and we wanted to check to see which cylinders were misfiring, but I don't want to risk breaking anything (i.e. a valve spring), dropping a valve, and ruining this new block that has less than 500 miles on it. I'm taking it to the place that tuned my car to see if they can hook it up to a diagnostic machine to see if it's something simple to fix, or something that's about to take a **** and kill my car along with it.
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