Car wont start after TKO install!!!!

Numbles

Numbles

Active Member
Dec 10, 2003
998
0
36
Chicago, IL
#1
Well, title says it all. After putting lt's and my tko in I'm having some starting issues.

When I first tried to start the car it wouldn't crank. So I went to jump the battery. (FWIW its Relocated in the trunk). And smoke came up from the drivers side fender where the solenoid thing is with the two terminals where the starter connect too. I forget what its called. But the car wont start with the key. Only with the car in the on position and if I hit the solenoid thing with a screw driver. Anyone know what it could be. I actually got it to start after with the key once but not again.

When I did get it started. The battery light was on and I drained the battery going around the block and and back to the garage. It didn't die but in no way did the battery have enough life to crank over the motor again. I borrowed my buddies battery out of his 96 gt and the same things were happening so I know its not battery related but with something else.

Anyone have issues with this. This is my first fox so im not farmiliar with some stuff. Even though is has a 5.0 like my 95 everything is a little different.

Dan.
 
#2
alternator for one thing. Sounds to me like your solenoid is hooked up up wrong. If u didn't change anything about it I'd recheck everything. Make sure all grounds are good and is your started crankin fine when you use whatever method to start it?

anthony
 
#4
Dan, it sounds like a couple issues. do you have 12 volts while cranking at the very top terminal on the solenoid (it slides on and off)?

the charging issues should be addressed ASAP as well, as that is creating additional variables. if undriveable, the battery and alternator can be taken in for bench/load testing (parts stores often do this for free).

and i would go over all the primary (battery) connections - including grounds. if you can jump a screwdriver across the solenoid lugs to make it start, you can do the same test, but instead put the slide-on wire to the battery terminal. if it starts, that suggests the solenoid is alright (with the screwdriver across the lugs, you bypassed the solenoid altogether).

did you have the battery relocated before this all happened?

good luck Dan.
 
#6
yep - the slide-on terminal is at about 12 o'clock (right on top). the ignition sends a signal through the clutch safety switch to the slide-on wire (it is what tells the solenoid that you are trying to start the car).

good luck.
 
#7
Where is the clutch safety switch. I have a feeling this could be a related problem for some reason. My clutch cable fell out of the fire wall while putting the trans in. I want to make sure that I didnt hit it maybe if its located near the clutch quadrant.
 
#9
clutch safety switch is on the clutch pedal arm (neutral safety switch is the equivelant on an automatic). the CSS has two terminals on it (two wires go into one of the terminals). there are two connectors on the clutch pedal arm (one is for CC), so that is how i differentiate them.

but if you do have 12 volts at the slide-on terminal while cranking (check it a couple times), the clutch safety switch is working just fine.

good luck.
 
#10
If this car was an automatic, they have a different harness at the trans (drivers side) than the Manual cars do or if the car was a manual trans and you don't have the harness plugged in. An AOD has 4 wires at the connector. Two are for back-up lamps and the others for neutral safety. What you need to do to hook up to a manual is cut the predominately red wire and splice into a loop with the predominately white wire (don't remember the stripe colors). The remaining purple wire and black wire go to the switch on the side of the manual trans for backup lamps. I think this is your problem since that circuit is broken, the alternator can't charge and the circuit for an Auto neutral safety is also broken.
 
#12
Ok. Went and worked on the car some more.

The slide on wire was broken on the inside of the rubber boot. So I repaired and reconnected it and the car starts fine with the key. I am now only having problems with charging.

I used a light with the probe on the end. The one with the ground wire also coming out. I stuck the probe in every wire coming out of the alternator and the light lighted up when I grounded it to an engine bolt. Dont know what this meens. I think the alt is pumping out amps but I dont think the amps are getting back to the battery

I checked a chilton's manual to find out where the alternater fuse is because I had one pop in my 95. And it says that these cars have fusable links. What the heck are they and where do I find them. Im lost. The chilton's manual doesn't have a picture for me to look at.

Dan.
 
#13
Dan, the fusible links are off the starter solenoid. mine has a 14 gauge link, IIRC for the alternator. i like to probe both sides of the link after and while doing a little tugging on the link. if it feels pooey inside, that suggests it went south (it might be almost dead and able to show 12 volts, but not be able to handle any amp flow).
thought the wire colors will be different, here is a diagram that will give you an idea of what the alternator circuit looks like (diagram courtesy of TMoss and site hosted by S&2B's):

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif


and to answer the other question about having the key on (post 11), ill answer for future searchers. with the key off, the car will crank but it wont start since the ignition is not energized. now if the key is on, obviously the car should start.

good luck.
 
#14
EDIT. Reread your post. Yeah I found the link and know what it is. Mine however is like a connector and is able to come apart. Its almost like oily inside. Like melted rubber. Can I get a new fuse for it or do I have to cut slpice and put a new one in.

I called a buddie who is a mechanic. He suggested cutting it out and putting an inline fuse holder in. Then getting a fuse for the right amperage.
 
#15
Dan, it sounds like your old one burned (they can get soft and gooey). you know this now. :)

i like your buddy's idea. you can buy a new link at the parts store and solder it in, or do what your bud proposes (i have been wanting to mount a custom fusebox under the hood and ditch all the links and use the fuse box with [circuit breakers] instead).
but i dont see any reason why soldering a fuse holder and proper fuse wont work. most fuses and links operate on a 'timed burn' so i think that would work. let's see if Jrichker, Tom or one of the other electrical studs chime in (i am certainly no Joe or Tom).

good luck and nice work to trace the linkie. :)
 
#16
Thanks for the info hissin50. Youve been a good help. I just need to know what fuse to get. I think I remember readin in the 3g alternator swap threads that the stock amp requires a 145amp fuse. Is that correct.

I just need a quick fix before I swap the alternator over from my 95 gt.
 
#18
a 3G alternator is generally a 130 amp unit.

it seems to me that people will run a 130-150 amp fuse for it. i can go look in the book for what my 94 uses for a fuse/circuit protection if you want.
 
#19
I going to get everything from PA I think the companies name is. Everywhere I look for the 4g alternator upgrade there name pops up. I just dont know what fuse to use for the stock alternator to get my car running. The stock 93 alternator is a 75 amp alternator right? Ive been lookin around some more. Is that what I should use for my fuse 75amps.

Sorry for the dump questions. I can do anything but elecrical.

Dan.
 
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