Car won't start! Theft Light, SVTTECH Please help!

[OneStiffGT]

I'd have to look at my O2 harness to be certain but it looks like the blue wire is a ground of some sort. What you would be concerned with are the black and white wires...anything that connects to the circuit.

You can get to the fuel pump connector. It should be about center of the bumper on top of the tank. Follow the instuctions in my thread. Disconnect everything in the circuit and then reconnect one at a time. When the fuse blows you have found your problem. Might help to have someone with you to listen for the pop.

Or better yet...check the areas where your rear end work was performed. Could be something close to it. Look closely at the fuel pump wires. To really trace them out you'd have to drop the tank but you may find it before it comes to that.

The problem with doing this is taht, my car doens't blow the fuse as soon as I turn the key to the ON position. I can drive around very slowly, but as soon as I hit around 4K rpm, the fuse blows.

 

[BobHyatt]

The problem with doing this is taht, my car doens't blow the fuse as soon as I turn the key to the ON position. I can drive around very slowly, but as soon as I hit around 4K rpm, the fuse blows.

Have you fixed the O2 wiring? A short on the heater circuit is going to blow a fuse somewhere. It could be a vibration problem where the short is not solid, but moving along makes the short happen due to vibration or air blowing around the wire.

It could be anything, even including the fuel pump (if it goes thru that fuse). I had one in a Neon a year or so ago that would do this, turned out to be the fuel pump itself. As it ran, the internal motor would begin to drag, fuel pressure would slowly fall, and current draw to the motor would rise until it would pop a 15a fuse. I finally found it with an ammeter in the fuel pump circuit where I could watch the amperage rise over time (sometimes 5 secs, sometimes several minutes) until "snap" and it would die.

 

[OneStiffGT]

Have you fixed the O2 wiring? A short on the heater circuit is going to blow a fuse somewhere. It could be a vibration problem where the short is not solid, but moving along makes the short happen due to vibration or air blowing around the wire.

It could be anything, even including the fuel pump (if it goes thru that fuse). I had one in a Neon a year or so ago that would do this, turned out to be the fuel pump itself. As it ran, the internal motor would begin to drag, fuel pressure would slowly fall, and current draw to the motor would rise until it would pop a 15a fuse. I finally found it with an ammeter in the fuel pump circuit where I could watch the amperage rise over time (sometimes 5 secs, sometimes several minutes) until "snap" and it would die.

When you say, the fuel pump goes through that fuse, what do you mean? As far as I know Fuel Pump has its own fuse?

 

[COramprat]

The fuel pump goes through the CCRM which in turn is protected by the PCM fuse. If you are not blowing the fuel pump fuse chances are it's OK.

 

[players02GT]

I am bringing back an old thread because I am currently having this same problem. I will check the fuse when I get home. Did you ever figure out what the problem was? When you car died, did it seemingly just shut off or sputter and then die? Mine died like I shut of the key.