Car wont start

You didnt say exactly what you installed. Since your moving the battery to the trunk, maybe you removed a ground and skipped over putting it back on or maybe theres a connector unplugged somewhere? If you had your distributor loose/out make sure your timing isnt way off. Im assuming your EFI so is your mass air meter plugged in w/intake tube to throttle body? give some more info and try to help ya out

kevin

Well, if you're positive it has enough fuel and spark and since the distributer hasn't been removed, the timing shouldn't be off; I'd suspect either an overlooked connector, firing order off or not enough ground.

The firing order goes counter-clockwise. If there is not enough groundyou can use a set of jumper cables to act as a temporary ground; attach one end to the neg. battery terminal and the other to a good ground (a/c bracket).

I would grab a noid light to ensure you have injector pulse.
good luck.

ok - if you smell fuel (and dont have a leak) you should be alright. if you have good spark and are pretty sure the injectors are firing..........

I would search for the famous attachment people post for the firing order. I have once seen the firing order in the repair manual be wrong (on a GM - i went nuts for an hour trying to figure it out). having spark and fuel should have at least at attempt to catch.

good luck with it.

gap is supposed to be .050 i think. thats what i use everytime anyway.

Just a quick thought, when i want my engine to crank and not start, like you are saying yours is doing, i disconnect the computer ground. Its attached to the main battery ground where it grounds to the firewall. Maybe some dirt got in the harness link (3 or 4 inches from the firewall down the wire, 2 black plastic pieces one male one female) or its not fully clicked into place. Just a thought, good luck.
EDIT: i just reread your post and i think this may be it. Since u dont have the battery in place, you might not have the computer ground attached because the battery isnt in the original spot......

millhouse said:

Well, apparently my dad got it to start this morning. I had some difficulties trying to get it to turn over yesterday. My best guess is that it got flooded.

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Good deal. If you continue having what you believe to be flooding issues, shoot some starting fluid into the intake; this will normally get your engine to fire if it is flooded, and will confirm your suspicion that the engine is indeed flooding. Hopefully you will get that taken care of with a good tune.

millhouse said:

Well, apparently my dad got it to start this morning. I had some difficulties trying to get it to turn over yesterday. My best guess is that it got flooded. I imagine the 42lb squirters are not forgiving in the least bit with starting problems. Some more good news is…it did not smoke upon startup. It seems like the seals on the turbo's might be fine (I bought them used).

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Can't wait to see the pictures/movies, I'm basically doing the same thing as you...what kit did you buy to relocate the battery or did you make your own? I'm wondering what gauge wire would work.

if one floors the gas pedal while (AND ONLY WHILE) cranking, it will cut the injector pulse and help clear a flood condition.

good luck with it.

Dump the codes to make sure you don't have an ECT problem which would cause the flooding on cold cranking.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

millhouse said:

Here is a link to my buildup thread---->my diy turbo build

I was planning on picking up some heavy gage welding cables for relocating the battery.

As far as how to hook it up, it seems jrichker has the info on that. Now if he just throws in the + hookup, I wont have to search on how to do it .

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thats what i used. just finished the re-location a few days ago.
cost. 42.89 for the cable (16 feet)
35.00 for the box and strap.