Car wont start

Go over all the wires that you touched, esp those lengthened. On the surface, checking the ignition switch and/or TFI for power to create spark while cranking would be where I start...........

Good luck.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


Notice the #33 white/pink wire that becomes a red/lt blue wire that branhes off to the TFI. If that wire isn't working, the TFI will not get the extra power it needs during cranking.

Here is another diagram...

.

The wire on the coil is not the problem. Go back and read the diagram: you'll
notice that there is a red/blue wire from the starter circuit that supplies power to
the TFI while cranking. Somewhere in the wiring, that feed wire from the starter
circuit to the TFI has been disconnected or damaged.

Notice the wiires on the TFI module in the next diagram. The red/blue one is the
one you want to check

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2
Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

A reading of -1 either means you reversed the meter leads or you need to look more closely at the meter setup. The red/blue wire on the TFI is supposed to read 12 volts when you turn the key to the Start position.

Step 1.) Find the instruction book that came with your Multimeter. Read it and familiarize yourself with how it works and how use it. If you lost the book or didn’t get one with it, do a Google search on the web to find the manufacturer’s web site & download a copy of the manual.

Step 2. ) Make sure that you know what test lead plugs into which jacks on the Multimeter. There are usually several different jacks on most Multimeters, and they have different functions. Make sure that your battery(s) in the Multimeter are good: if you have any doubts, replace the battery(s).

Step 3.) Once you are sure that the Multimeter is functional and you have the leads plugged into the jacks for Ohms ( the upside down “U” symbol), do some simple measurements to make sure that you know how to use it correctly. Set the switch to the lowest range and touch the leads together: you should not see “nothing” but you should see 1.0-0.3 ohms. Measure a 60 watt light bulb: cold it will measure about 17.5 Ohms. It you measure it while it is hot, the reading will be greater.

Step 4.) Make several test measurements using the ohms function and the DC volts function. Remember all resistance measurements must be done with the power off the circuit. This avoids false readings and possible damage to the ohmmeter.. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until you are sure that you can do it without making any mistakes.

Step 5.) Then see http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp and carefully study ALL the information under the Heading Chassis Electrical, Basic Electricity – Understanding & Troubleshooting

Slo 5.0 said:

Im not sure if it would work, but if I bought a new ignition system such as the Accel 300+, or the MSD 6AL would my car start again?

Click to expand...

Aftermarket ignitions are kind of like amplifiers - they need a good foundation under them (the stock ignition components - TFI and PIP) to work well. In other words, an aftermarket ignition wouldnt be the best way to circumvent an issue.

Good luck.