Engine Car Won't Start

stang89bidges · Nov 16, 2014

Need some help... About 3 months ago I blew the head gaskets out due to overheating issues. Changed out the gaskets and had one of the heads resurfaced due to warping. Still had overheating problems and blew the dam head gaskets out again. Just got everything back together again and the car won't start. I didn't turn the engine and put the distributor back in same position as last time. Acts like no fuel or spark. I can hear the pump and smell gas in the engine bay.

I read this post from jrichker and can't figure out what to jump...
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-checklist-for-fuel-injected-mustangs.787471/

1.) Remove push on connector (small red/blue wire) from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch to the Run position. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the high voltage coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.

He says to jump the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid, does he mean the screw that had the red/blue wire on it? So I run a jumper wire(maybe a 14awg wire) from the screw to the big bolt that holds the battery wire?

And does anyone have pics of what to do? Video? Also would like to know where the PIP sensor is to check.

Thanks in advance.
Tom

madspeed · Nov 16, 2014

stang89bidges · Nov 16, 2014

Also forgot to mention. The first time I cranked over the engine when I got it all back together the engine backfired big time. What would cause this?

Also, because of the head gasket leaking, and me driving it home, there was quite a bit of antifreeze in the oil...

jrichker · Nov 17, 2014

@stang89bidges

stang89bidges · Nov 17, 2014

That is an awesome diagram @jrichker. I apologize you had to repost this as I am sure you have posted this one before and I didn't look hard enough. I do have a 2 questions however.

1. What AWG wire should I use for the jumper?
2. Do I need to test the solenoid if my engine cranks like madspeed mentioned? (FYI: His post doesn't show that comment but it did show in the email alert I got from the forums).

I did a further down test in your other post. I have power at the fuel injectors.

Knowing all of this is going to be helpful for future as well. Thanks in advance!

jrichker · Nov 17, 2014

Any size wire bigger that 22 gauge will do. You could even use a screwdriver it you are careful.

stang89bidges · Nov 19, 2014

Ok, so I haven't made it all the way through your list yet. It's been really cold lately and the garage isn't heated.

I want to mention again that this car is my DD and has always been taken care of and has always ran great before the changing of the head gaskets.

That being said when I put the car back together(and this is the second time in less than 3 months so I'm getting pretty good at it) I knew there was a good chance that I put the distributor in wrong due to the helical gears. I didn't really know about that and what marks to be using. So I did a tremendous amount of research on installing the distributor, finding TDC, starting from scratch, using a timing light, etc. So. I fixed the distributor and timed the engine properly by just cranking over the engine. Battery now on charger ;-)

This did not resolve my issue. I really thought it was the distributor at 180 degrees off... sad...

So can I start there in your list? I have a little spark plug tester and found I am getting spark on the #5 spark plug. Is that enough information to jump in your list down to #4? I did the tests for #3 and all was fine. I can hear the fuel pump fire everytime I turn the key. I also smelled gas on my spark plug #1 when I was finding TDC last night. And I had not turned it over for 24 hours and still smelled gas on the plug. So it must be getting fuel. I also tested and found 12 volts at the red wire on the #5 injector.

What do you think? Can I start at #4 and move on?

stang89bidges · Nov 19, 2014

Ok, looks like its fuel pressure. I can't get to the fuel filter right now(jack busted). So I checked my fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail and the vacume line doesn't have fuel in it. But when I turn the key to the on position and hear my fuel pump kick in, and then hit the shrader valve on my fuel rail, just a little bit of fuel comes out, and it's barely pressurized. This makes me think it's fuel pressure. How pressurized should the fuel rail get? Shouldn't it shoot out pretty hard for a second or two?

jrichker · Nov 20, 2014

Try using a tire pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure. The fuel rails don't pressurize much until the engine starts to turn over good.

stang89bidges · Nov 20, 2014

Ok, in that case, I think I need to ask some questions to make sure I didn't miss a vital step in your list of troubleshooting this problem.

These are all related to your troubleshooting guide.

Step #1. What exactly am I doing here? Is this step testing the solenoid AND blue spark from the coil? And I'm assuming by 3/8" you mean "size of actual spark not the distance away from block to hold the spark plug?

Step #3. Should I be testing all the spark plugs for spark or just the #1 cylinder? I actually just tested #5 cylinder for spark. Also, when I jump the test connector to turn on the pump, will that turn on the pump continuous so I will get full pressure build up? And if so, will that hurt my pump if I leave it jumped for too long?

Hopefully these questions make sense and can be answered easily. I am a internet mechanic for sure, and I really think in order for me to fully troubleshoot I need to know exactly what I am doing before I attempt it so that I use the results properly and also so I don't hurt myself or the car!

Thanks in advance,
Tom

stang89bidges · Nov 20, 2014

Ok I am stumped. I just rented a fuel pressure kit from local auto parts store. Hooked it up to the shrader valve an I get no pressure reading. But. I disconnected the return line from my vortech S/C FMU and a huge steady stream of fuel comes out of it. It's connected to the return from Stock Regulator! Why would I have no reading at inlet shrader to fuel rail, but steady stream of fuel coming from return line?

stang89bidges · Nov 20, 2014

Ok, something else. I tried turning over the vehicle again. It backfired big time again. This time it left pretty big black marks on the concrete out of the tail pipes. What does that mean?

jrichker · Nov 21, 2014

Check fuel pressure:
The local auto parts store may rent or loan a fuel pressure test gauge if you don't have one.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Check it for evidence of fuel present in the line by removing it and blowing air through it. If you find fuel, the fuel pressure regulator has failed. Reinstall the line; leave the fuel pressure regulator end of the vacuum line disconnected. Then cap or plug the open end of the vacuum line and stow it out of the way.
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the Schrader port located just behind the alternator.
Turn the ignition switch on & start the engine. Observe the pressure: you should see 37-41 PSI at idle.
Turn the ignition off; reconnect the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. Then disconnect the fuel pressure test gauge. Watch out for squirting gas when you do this.

Fuel pump pressure test
Disconnect the larger of the two fuel lines up by the Schrader valve. It is the return line and does not have the Schrader valve on it. Find a piece of rubber fuel hose and clamp it on the return line coming from the regulator. Stick a bolt in the other end of the hose and make sure that all your connections are tight and leak proof as possible. When this powers up, you don't want fuel squirting everywhere. Hook up the fuel pressure test gauge. Turn the ignition switch on and watch for leaks. You may want to use a helper inside the car to cut the switch off quickly if you have a leak. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground.

Caution!!! You have blocked the return line for the fuel pump! Pressure will rise very quickly past safe levels with a good pump
If the pressure goes up past 55 PSI, the pump is good and the fuel pressure regulator is bad. If the fuel pressure does not hit 55 PSI or more in a few seconds, the pump is bad or you have electrical problems.

RangerJoe · Nov 21, 2014

Are you positive that the distributor is not 180 degrees out? I made this mistake a few years back and it took me a few days to figure it out. It liked to backfire this way.

When I put my motor in a few weeks ago, I went to start it and it was the same. I knew what it was right away, corrected it, and it fired right up.

Joe

stang89bidges · Nov 23, 2014

That was it! I ended up talking to my cuz because after following jrichker's troubleshooting guide I was at a loss. I just knew I didn't understand something enough and didn't do it right. It turned out it was finding TDC correctly. I found TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. I didn't understand that 1 full 360 degree turn on damper was exhaust stroke, and another 360 degree turn was compression stroke. Once I used my thumb to find compression stroke on #1 cylinder then dropped dizzy in pointing at #1 cylinder, the car started immediately when I turned the key. So relieved.

Thanks to all who helped!

RangerJoe · Nov 23, 2014

stang89bidges said:
That was it! I ended up talking to my cuz because after following jrichker's troubleshooting guide I was at a loss. I just knew I didn't understand something enough and didn't do it right. It turned out it was finding TDC correctly. I found TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. I didn't understand that 1 full 360 degree turn on damper was exhaust stroke, and another 360 degree turn was compression stroke. Once I used my thumb to find compression stroke on #1 cylinder then dropped dizzy in pointing at #1 cylinder, the car started immediately when I turned the key. So relieved.

Thanks to all who helped!

I know the feeling of relief! Good job on getting it together.

Joe

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