Car won't take A/C refrigerant, compressor won't start.

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Saint Louis, MO

May 30, 2008

#21

• May 30, 2008

• #21

yes, when the system gets enough R12 in it, the pressure switch will come on and you finish charging.

 

S

superspec

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Aug 14, 2006

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May 30, 2008

#22

• May 30, 2008

• #22

tmoss said:

yes, when the system gets enough R12 in it, the pressure switch will come on and you finish charging.

Click to expand...

ok, so just put another can in it? and then the switch will go back to normal?

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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May 30, 2008

#23

• May 30, 2008

• #23

yes, probably - My systems holds about 2.2 lbs of refrigerant.

 

dcurtis

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Jan 19, 2006

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May 31, 2008

#24

• May 31, 2008

• #24

dont mean to hi jack the thread but, my ac works but when I turn it on , the compressor itself will blow off through the little hole on top of the ac, what would cause this? could there be a clog in the line or something, so the pressure builds and blows off through the valve on the compressor?

 

S

sal

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Jun 1, 2008

#25

• Jun 1, 2008

• #25

.

 

dbdragracing

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#26

• Jun 1, 2008

• #26

subscribing

 

NotoriousGT350

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Jun 2, 2008

#27

• Jun 2, 2008

• #27

Subscribing... sounds similar to my problem and this 101-105* heat on black is too much for me.

 

GreatWhite

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Feb 24, 2006

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Fairfield, PA

Jun 6, 2008

#28

• Jun 6, 2008

• #28

Another quick question relating to the A/C and compressor... my A/C hasn't worked for some time, at least since last summer as I don't drive it in the winter months, and I went to recharged the system tonight. Before I put freon in the system, the compressor clicked on and off and the pressure gauge on the canister went up and down when it clicked on and off. When the compressor stopped, it went up, when it went on, it went down. So I added some, and the compressor stayed on like it should with MAX AC and full blower and I filled it up to the specified pressure it should be. After taking the car for a quick spin around the block to get it circulating, the compressor no longer was turning. The air didn't get any colder and the compressor didn't click on like it did before.

Is this a case of the system thinking there isn't enough freon in it so it shuts down the compressor? In this case, is it necessary to vac the system to clear it out, etc? I'm taking the car in to get it inspected probably in the next week or two, I think I will just get it looked at then if I can't figure out.

Thanks, CJ


p.s. I haven't been on this forum in a long timeeeeeeeeeeee.......... feels good to be back haha

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 7, 2008

#29

• Jun 7, 2008

• #29

seals need attention - sounds like you need to pull the system apart and put new o-rings in everywhere - you leaked the charge you put in out.

 

keithnra

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Jun 7, 2008

#30

• Jun 7, 2008

• #30

nice info guys .

 

GreatWhite

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Feb 24, 2006

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Fairfield, PA

Jun 7, 2008

#31

• Jun 7, 2008

• #31

Where does it leak? Can see you a leak or is it just gas? I'm confused. I didn't see or smell any leaks.

 

mustangsquared

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new bern nc

Jul 10, 2009

#32

• Jul 10, 2009

• #32

ok, bringing her back to life...

I noticed my compressor is coming on and off every 3-5 seconds. I put a gauge on the high side and I bounce between too low and too high and of course my engine idle is bouncing right along with it. So do I add more to it or remove some? I did the R134 conversion 5 years ago when I had a seal go bad.

 

jrichker

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#33

• Jul 10, 2009

• #33

Carefully add some more refrigerant. You really need a charging gauge set to watch the low and high side pressures at the same time.

Gauge set for recharging = $20-$120 – check out the pawn shops for a bargain before you pay retail.
See Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices for an inexpensive gauge set.

 

mustangsquared

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#34

• Jul 10, 2009

• #34

Thanks, my daughters Boy friend owns a pawn shop, time to give him a call and have him keep an eye out for me.