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Car won't turn over

  • Thread starter Thread starter sarverpt
  • Start date Start date Apr 19, 2005
S

sarverpt

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Sep 20, 2004
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Apr 19, 2005
#1
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #1
When I attempt to start my car all I get is a single click. The battery is fully charged and I have replaced the solenoid. What should I check next?
 

Funhog

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Alabama
Apr 19, 2005
#2
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #2
I had that same problem. I would turn the key and I would hear the fuel and a click like you said. I am planning on getting a whole new starter whereas you only got a new solenoid. You can try hitting the starter with a rubber hammer. Also, try and get it on flat ground. If you search through other posts made by me (go to Funhog and search other posts) you will see all of the replies I got. One guy gave a long detailed list. Its the post with the title "Car Wont Start" Good luck
 
P

pconway

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Apr 7, 2005
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wtby, ct
Apr 19, 2005
#3
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #3
sarverpt said:
When I attempt to start my car all I get is a single click. The battery is fully charged and I have replaced the solenoid. What should I check next?
Click to expand...


on my dads truck the the battery cable would pop off so he went and bought this thing that looked like a skate to that fixed it.
 

PhLoBuS

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Aug 15, 2004
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Beverly, MA
Apr 19, 2005
#4
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #4
probably a dead spot on your starter
 

jrichker

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Apr 19, 2005
#5
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #5
Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt for a diagram on how to do voltage drop testing


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check the battery. Most auto parts stores will do a free battery check if you bring them the battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Put the car's transmission in neutral or have someone press in on the clutch. Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) .) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif for a very good diagram of the starter & neutral safety switch wiring

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring are good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid. If jumpering the two big solenoid posts made the starter crank, the logical next step is to replace the starter solenoid (also known as the starter relay).

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. If the starter fails the test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
 
K

kystang1889

New Member
Dec 29, 2002
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0
ky
Apr 19, 2005
#6
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #6
jrichker said:
Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt for a diagram on how to do voltage drop testing


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check the battery. Most auto parts stores will do a free battery check if you bring them the battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Check the cables for cracks in the insulation, and corrosion around the wire where it joins the connector. Look for swelling of the cable’s diameter which would indicate corrosion inside the cable. Bending the cable can often reveal corrosive damage inside the cable when the outside looks OK.

4.) Put the car's transmission in neutral or have someone press in on the clutch. Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw) and jump it to the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) .) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif for a very good diagram of the starter & neutral safety switch wiring

6.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring are good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid. If jumpering the two big solenoid posts made the starter crank, the logical next step is to replace the starter solenoid (also known as the starter relay).

7.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. If the starter fails the test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.
Click to expand...

lol i can tell you got that right outta the book a 1/2 volt is no big deal in the real world it should still crank as if there is atleast 10v

like he said make sure u have voltage at the starter if not check at the relay

if both have voltage make sure the starter has a good ground

make sure u have good clean cable connection to that batt.
 

Thenemesis

Member
Nov 16, 2004
321
0
17
chuckletown, sc
Apr 19, 2005
#7
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #7
jrich you always have a long post for any tech help.. lol but i think its a ground somewheres.. mine messed up bc of it
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Apr 19, 2005
#8
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #8
kystang1889 said:
lol i can tell you got that right outta the book a 1/2 volt is no big deal in the real world it should still crank as if there is atleast 10v
Click to expand...
a half-volt drop might still work, but is it right? no. just because it works does not mean it is right.

and with the 10 volt comment, do you mean while cranking? i hope so. i dont like to to see cranking at 10 volts, but to each his/her own.
 

Funhog

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
219
0
0
Alabama
Apr 19, 2005
#9
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #9
the list i was talking about is the one by jrichker. thanks for helping me out btw
 
S

sarverpt

New Member
Sep 20, 2004
12
0
0
Apr 19, 2005
#10
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #10
I ended up replacing the starter, the bearings in it were bad but it did crank when it was tested. I was able to start the car when it was jacked up but when it was on the ground it wouldn't start. So I jacked it back up and sure enough it started. A little later I went out and it started on the ground but it cranked really slow and the volt gague would only go up the the second white line even when I revved it up. I am going to replace the cable from the starter to the solenoid tomorrow, all the other ones are new so if it is not that I am out of ideas except for the alternator which I'm not sure if it would even be causing my problems.
 
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