Car wouldn't start today

If your solenoid is clicking it could be bad. How are the condition of your battery cables? How clean is your ground?

If you do decide to get a starter you can get a stock replacement one for a 94-95 Mustang. A "Mini" starter.

OEM would be best but they are more expensive.

They are not hard to install but require you to wire it different to the solenoid.

Not hard at all.

Heres a good link that should help you.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/08/ministarter/index2.shtml

I am going through the same thing you are. I got mine to start when I was hitting the starter and I also had a friend rock the car as I hit it. After a couple times under the car doing that it worked. How much for a 94-95 mini starter?

have sombody turn the key and sombody else hit the starter with a hammer or a steel rod from up top. also could be your starter relay, but most likely it is the starter.

Turn the key to the "run" position and jump the solenoid with a screw driver. If it cranks, it is not the starter. AutoZone can test the starter for you if you take it to them. If you were having any heat soak problems, they can't test for that. Just thought I would throw that out there.

Tim

usally when the starter is going u will see it still draw amps. the lights will dim even though the starter not cranking. clicking is usally bad connections. clean all your connections is what i would suggest.

xplo89gt said:

89sleeper, good link. Do you know if the PA Performance mini starter is less or more expensive than the 94-95 oem one?

The one thing I want to make sure of is that it is definately the starter. Is there any definite method?

Click to expand...

The PA Starter is $135 from here .

The Ford one is $159.99 from here .


I would bring the sterter somewhere and have it tested like stang22 said. They will do it for free for you so you will know for sure.

stang22 said:

Turn the key to the "run" position and jump the solenoid with a screw driver. If it cranks, it is not the starter. AutoZone can test the starter for you if you take it to them. If you were having any heat soak problems, they can't test for that. Just thought I would throw that out there.

Tim

Click to expand...

This can also be a loose connection too, so check to see if something wiggled loose. If it's good there, test the starter. You can get under the car while someone turns the key and tap it with a hammer. Sometimes they like to seize and a tap will turn them over. If that works, you know you're starter is starting to go. Good luck!

Some of this may be a repeat, but it is worthwhile stuff...

Here's a checklist:

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Then pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

4.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then the relay is bad. See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars .OR see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars. See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

5.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) If that doesn't work, use a jumper cable from the positive lead on the battery direct to the starter post where the big wire from the relay connects. If it cranks then, it is the power wire from the relay gone bad. This will be hard to do, since there isn't much room to do it.

8.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.