Carb swap crank issue...

[93project]

Here's the background,.....
93 GT changed to carb. Ignition consists of mech advancd MSD Dizzy, Blaster coil, and 6Al. I have the magnetic pickup hooked up to the dizzy, orange and black lines to coil, and the red to the "Ignition on and cranking" line of the ignition switch, the white wire is now dead.
Now the problem.... My clutch cable took a dump, (BBK adjustable) and I'm getting a stock one tomorrow, so I have to manually press the clutch pedal in to punch the Clutch switch. Thing is, the engine wont attempt to crank at all when I do this and turn the key.

If I do the screwdriver thing on the solenoid, It attempts to fire (no gas) and ignition is working. If I had gas in the tank, it would fire.
Tomorrow I'll get some gas to get it going but shouldn't the engine turn when I punch in the pedal and turn the key?

I'm going to bypass the clutch switch with a Fuse tomorrow. See if that helps. Any other advice?

Last thing, the little wire that goes to the solenoid on that little pin, does it matter that I have it on a "O" style connector instead of the puch in style Ford used? And, just in case I'm dumb, it goes to the "I" side right, not the "S" side? What about the actual battery cables on the solenoid? I have the mini starter hooked up with one wire on each side, the larger grouped with everything else and the smaller wire alone. Does it matter what side of the solenoid they are all on?

 

[jrichker]

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Revised 09-July-2009 to reorder stuck solenoid help.

No crank. slow crank and stuck starter solenoid problems have the same root causes – low battery voltage and poor connections. For that reason, they are grouped together.
Use the same initial group of tests to find the root cause of both no crank and stuck solenoid problems.

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery for low charge and dead cells. A good battery will measure 12-13 volts at full charge with the ignition switch in the Run position but without the engine running.
A voltmeter placed across the battery terminals should show a minimum of 9.5-10 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position and the starter engages or tries to engage. Less than this will result in a clicking solenoid, or slow cranking (if it cranks at all) or a starter solenoid that sticks and welds the contacts together.

Most auto parts stores will check your battery for free. It does not have to be installed in the car to have it checked; you can carry it with you to the auto parts store.

The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems.

The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer. Any place you see green on a copper wire is corrosion. Corrosion gets in the clamped joint and works its way up the wire under the insulation. Corroded connections do not conduct electricity well. Avoid them like the plague...

If the starter solenoid welds the contacts, then the starter will attempt to run anytime there is power in the battery. The cables and solenoid will get very hot, and may even start smoking. The temporary fix for a welded starter solenoid is to disconnect the battery and smack the back of the solenoid housing a sharp blow with a hammer. This may cause the contacts to unstuck and work normally for a while.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.

See Automotive Test Tools for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground down near the oil filter, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall. All grounds should be clean and shiny. Use some sandpaper to clean them up.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter solenoid next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

The rest of the tech note only concerns no crank problems. If your problem was a stuck solenoid, go back to step 1.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it cranks, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.

Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

6.) Pull the starter and take it to AutoZone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.


Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang

Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.

Electrical checks for the switches and starter solenoid

Remove the small red/blue wire from the starter solenoid. Use a screwdriver to bridge the connection from the battery positive connection on the starter solenoid to the small screw where the red/blue wire was connected. The starter should crank the engine. If it does not, the starter solenoid is defective.

If the starter does crank the engine, the problem is in the clutch safety circuit (5 speed) or Neutral Sense Switch (auto trans) or ignition switch.


Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

You will need a voltmeter or test lamp for the rest of the checks. Connect one lead of the voltmeter or test lamp to ground. The other lead will connect to the item under test.
Look for 12 volts on the white/pink wire when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position. Check the ignition switch first.
No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.

The next step will require you to push the clutch pedal to the floor (5 speed) or put the transmission in neutral (auto trans) while the ignition switch is turned to the Start position.
Good 12 volts, check the clutch safety switch (5 speed) or Neutral Sense Switch (auto trans) for good 12 volts on both sides of the switches. No 12 volts on both sides of the switch and the switches are defective or out of adjustment. Check the wiring for bad connections while you are at it.

 

[trufordguy]

Your prob is a little more basic and needs less info than ^^ that guy is trying to give. try moving the wire to the s terminal on the solonoid, or better yet make jumper wire and touch it to the s term and see it it attemps to crank if it does switch it

 

[jrichker]

Your prob is a little more basic and needs less info than ^^ that guy is trying to give. try moving the wire to the s terminal on the solonoid, or better yet make jumper wire and touch it to the s term and see it it attemps to crank if it does switch it

All that is covered in the tech note.

The tech notes I post take into consideration that I cannot be there to watch over the shoulder of the person doing the work. I cannot to see the condition of the car or what and how it is being done. Little things that are clues to big problems are often not noticed or entered in the post. That's why there is a long laundry list of items to check. As I tell everybody, work your way through the checklist one step at a time and you will find the problem.

 

[trufordguy]

I agree 100% and love how in depth your information is. I have just encountered too many guys(gals) on here and in the general mustang public that would be confused by too much info. I just try to get in there heads based on the info they give and break it down to its simplist form.

Thanks Mike