It won't be super cheap, but it will make the car a little easier to tune. Yes, you will need the whole air cleaner- lid, bottom, and black tube to the fender. No, you don't need the actual intake- just the egr spacer below the carb and the carb. Make sure you get the throttle bracket that bolts to the intake and the throttle cable. Not sure if you're in an emissions area, but if you are, snag the whole vacuum harness and thermactor parts. Get the distributor and duraspark box and harness (cut yourself enough of the green wire so you can splice if needed. Like I said, as for wiring up the duraspark box, I'm not 100% sure on how to do that as I am using MSD instead, but I think I did figure out how you would wire it. Your current spark plug wires will work on the duraspark distributor. I would however put at least a new cap and rotor on that. If you can get the year of the car that you're getting all this from, keep it in mind as then you can use the matching vacuum diagram in a Chilton's manual and rebuild your vacuum harness off that. Honestly, I know you're trying to do this on a budget (as did I), but I would highly suggest using an MSD box. If you do use the duraspark box, it would involve some creative wiring and addition of a ballast resistor. I'm not even 100% sure if you can use the TFI coil with it. Using the MSD is a little more expensive, but it is basically plug and play and there are no resistors needed and you can use your TFI coil. It also helps you tune it out and improves power and economy. I used the MSD 6 box, duraspark distributor harness adapter, eec iv coil adapter, and the 8920 tach adapter (need that if you want your factory tach to work!). I installed the whole setup in maybe 2 hours. The carb and the rest of the stuff went on fairly easy as well. When eliminating the EEC harness, unplug all the sensors and actuators first. then unplug the connections behind the left strut tower (below the wiper motor) begin to fish the harness out of that corner and away from the engine. Be careful- Ford for some reason ran the oil sensor wire in the EEC harness. Just cut the wire and pull it out and away from the harness and reconnect it to itself after harness removal. Once you've got it all out and away from the engine, pry the large rubber grommet out of the firewall. Work inside the car then and remove the computer. Then remove the small power relay. Then begin feeding the wiring back through up into the engine bay. It take a LOT of wiggling, but it does all fit. Cut the large rubber grommet off the harness then and shove it back into it's hole and put butyl tape or silicone into the hole left from the harness. That frees up lots of space around the carb and the back of the engine to start the swap. Rebuild kits for the carb aren't cheap. Advance auto has them but they are 75 bucks. NAPA said it would be a special order and they weren't sure about getting it then. Be sure to order the correct one for the carb (check the tag attached to it for the part #). If you want a K&N filter to fit the round air cleaner, it is part #E1200.
