Yeah I have those capped off on my carb...I really wish mine had the sights on the float bowls though.
Yeah I have those capped off on my carb...I really wish mine had the sights on the float bowls though.Here are 3 vacuum ports on the front of my Carb... Do you have them plugged? Mine are capped with a rubber cap.. The second picture shows the small port/capped to the right of the larger port/capped..... Your carb might be different, but you should have at least 2 ports in this area...
ARP thread sealSo I am pretty sure all my intake openings are capped off, However it appears that you used something other than tape to seal yours...What did you use to seal your fittings?
I will also look into a better vacuum tree like that....Mine is literally from 1978 LOL
I wonder if the spacer isn't part of this whole issue...It is just a cheaper one from Auto Zone....I never really considered the thought of the spacer not properly matching to the manifoldNothing wrong with your vacuum port, everything is limps' post is good, let be add that I believe this issue prolly is a miss-match at the carb base, limps' carb is a different style but same principle, I would start at the carb, 600 cfm is a good size and will work just fine with some 'tuning'. Get gaskets that match your carb, next make sure that spacer is compatible with the carb base, now it's time to flip it over, check the blades are set to the idle slots correctly, the blade should barely expose the slot, with the carb off set the floats, take a straw and blow air through any holes you can, you'd be surprised what todays fuel leaves behind when dried up
With matching gaskets and spacer you can bolt the carb back on.
Now we work on this timing issue, that may or may not be THE issue, pull the left (passenger side) valve cover, spin the engine over to TDC of compression on the #1 cyl, balancer on zero, both valves on that cyl closed, rotor at #1 spark plug tower.
Get this far and you're ready to crank the engine.
You need toast for 'tun-a-fish' you need a vacuum gauge to 'tun-a-carb.
Get it to idle, set the timing, now the 'fun' begins.
This eliminates 2 unknowns.
Thanks! That has to be a better option than the tape.ARP thread seal
I had many holleys as a younger person... ALL of them were like this...Yeah I have those capped off on my carb...I really wish mine had the sights on the float bowls though.
Yeah I didn't even notice the absence of them when I originally bought the carb...this is what I get for grabbing a Holley from the local auto parts store. LOL...At the time i was in a crunch for a new carb for my old motorI had many holleys as a younger person... ALL of them were like this...
My new Summit carb has the windows and it will be a new experience for me.
Again, there is NOTHING wrong with this way to adjust your floats... Its been around for 50 years or more....Yeah I didn't even notice the absence of them when I originally bought the carb...this is what I get for grabbing a Holley from the local auto parts store. LOL...At the time i was in a crunch for a new carb for my old motor
Which way ot adjust? Sorry I think I missed something LOLAgain, there is NOTHING wrong with this way to adjust your floats... Its been around for 50 years or more....
Don't wonder, compare it to a spacer for the Holley, don't get focused on one part, the Holley site has lots of info on settings for idle, including idle transfer slots for blades setting. Think of the carb as a manual computer, you have to set it up to receive and respond to the flow of air/fuel correctly.I wonder if the spacer isn't part of this whole issue...It is just a cheaper one from Auto Zone....I never really considered the thought of the spacer not properly matching to the manifold
When you say the blade shoudl barely expose the sot, not sure exactly what that means..I had seen elsewhere something about potentially setting the blade to be slightly "open" when everything is off.
The removable float bowl screws VS glassWhich way ot adjust? Sorry I think I missed something LOL
Yeah that is my only concern is the butterfly thing...the gasket itself should be good..nice thicker insulated type..ITSqelFW SUIHOSUWLD BE WWWWWWWWWWWGOOD..ONYUIOI think a new carb gasket is a good idea... Make sure if fits the carb and the intake... Double check to see if the butter fly valves do not hang up on it, including the secondarys after it is installed.... Good and snug, but to NOT overtighten the nuts holding down the carb......
Yeah..I am kind of wishing I hadn't sold that carb with my old engine. LOLWithout being there its hard to diagnose....
I suggestions here are to take it back to basics and eliminate the simple things first....
Start with installing the new gasket, making sure it is correct, and NOTHING else... THEN start to reconnect the other items as you go...
Hope this is your problem...
If the new gasket does not do it, try installing the old carb fors and giggles.....
DO NOT start changing items before you fix whats wrong now............Yeah..I am kind of wishing I hadn't sold that carb with my old engine. LOL
A friend of mine suggested going to the Holley Sniper self learning setup, which I had always eventually intended but not sure if that might just creat enew problems LOL
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