Castor Camber Plate Recommendations

Sompin2do

New Member
Nov 30, 2004
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TX
90 GT Bone Stock except for cold air and tires/wheels.

After 25k miles and bad inside shoulder wear on Kumho Exsta Supra 712s (235/45/17) mounted on 17x8 Cobra Rs, I think I'm to the point of needing CC plates. I've had the rivets drilled and it hasn't helped much at all.

Any recommendations on a good set? I'm looking so far at MAC and BBK.

Also thinking of changing tire size to 245/40R17. Can someone tell me any advantage/disadvantage to that?

I have some tire rub and not sure if maybe the tires are too tall. Could there be other suspension issues I'm missing? I replaced the sway bar end links about a year ago, but the stock tires on the car at that time were still wearing out on the inside shoulders. Appreciate the help.

Mike
:flag:
 
dont buy that mac or bbk junk for suspension pieces, the extra 20.00 bucks more and you can have the best, get the maximum motorsports plates and you wont be dissapointed they are the best, quality and lifetime warranty, trust me get the maximums the first time!!!
 
I'll suggest what i think to be the best, and save you money.

First off, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO on the BBks, i just threw mine in the garbage.

Use Kenny Brown Caster Plus'
They are not the prettiest CC plate, but they have a fixed caster design, you get 100% positive caster which is best for a street mustang, keeps you from follwing ruts in the road. There is no adjustment for anything but the camber.
So no chance of them moving foward or back, no chance of screwed up caster. No drilling to set the caster properly, because there is no bolts.
Cost $150 to my door directly from Kenny Brown.
 
I seem to be in the minority here, but I like my steedas. IMHO, Steeda stuff is usually pretty good across the board. BBK and MAC products can be okay, but you're really tossing the dice whenever you buy their stuff. Most of the time their stuff will work, but you have to monkey around alot with it to get it to do what it's supposed to. It ends up being a waste of time.
 
I went w/ a set from steeda myself. No problems what so ever. I had a few sets (various brands) and couldn't find noteworthy drawbacks them. My tires wore evenly and the cars were dropped 1.5-2" Just try to find a set w/ spherical bearings.
 
Right. The main thing is spherical bearings at the top, not a poly bushing or some other crap like that. Especially if there is a chance of ever having coilovers in the future. Frankly, I don't see the point of buying CC plates if they don't have adjustments for both- any properly trained tire shop can set them up and it doesn't cost much. Would you buy a telephone that only called out? You'd actually have to call them "C plates". I have MM's, and have been very happy with them, I'd say they are up at the top somewhere... don't know how much better or worse than Steeda or KB- but I'll admit that the BEST ones I've found are actually the Griggs ones. I'd say for the most part, MM's are good enough and less money, but all four of them race what they sell, and win, so you should be safe with any of them.
 
Thanks for all the input. I ordered MMs today. Went by the alignment shop and they told me the left side is 2.5 and the right is 1.5 negative. Wishing I would have ordered about 25k miles ago.
I understand getting the strut nut off is a bear without impact. Anybody have any good suggestions? I don't have an impact. Liquid wrench for starters?
Thanks again!
 
As an ex- Ford tech that all I did was alignments.. I say screw CC plates. You can slot the exsisting holes in the strut tower to get the adjustment you need. If you're into road racing, and are always changing the settings, then YES.. get them.. If not.. Take it to a COMPETENT alignment tech and let them align it. No initial 200 bucks for the plates, then the alignment. I would never buy CC plates. It's a waste of money on a street stang that doesn't change the caster/camber settings all the time.
 
I am running a full MM suspension WITHOUT cc plates

PoopDawg said:
As an ex- Ford tech that all I did was alignments.. I say screw CC plates. You can slot the exsisting holes in the strut tower to get the adjustment you need. If you're into road racing, and are always changing the settings, then YES.. get them.. If not.. Take it to a COMPETENT alignment tech and let them align it. No initial 200 bucks for the plates, then the alignment. I would never buy CC plates. It's a waste of money on a street stang that doesn't change the caster/camber settings all the time.


I bought the whole MM suspension for my 87 vert... Tokiko struts, HR springs, Ford Racing A arms (I think they are discontinued?) and MM arms in the back..I took it to have it installed, and they said that they could align it properly without them. I am not sure if they slotted or not, but he said that if I was not racing (and didn't need any super special alignment setting) then I didn't need them. He said return them. I still don't know if he was telling the truth or not :shrug: , but everything seems ok so far..... :) :)
 
You two try it with coilovers. Nevermind getting it aligned properly- it won't even stay together. It is also important to make the differentiation between acceptable factory specifications and performance driving specifications. Yes, you can get it aligned back within appropriate specs without CC plates, but Ford specs weren't for any kind of performance driving. Whether it's a streetcar or racecar is irrelevant. The worst part about the stock setup isn't even the cc settings, it's the rubber bushing at the top. MM plates are worth having just for the spherical bearing.