Regarding negative camber w/ C-springs

stangGT97

New Member
Dec 22, 2004
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Boston area, MA
Hey all,

When I bought my car, it was dropped 2" using cut-coil stock springs. The front wheels have a little bit of negative camber, which causes the tires to wear on the insides. Where I am located now, I have no access to a garage so I cannot install caster/camber plates.

Here's my situation - I'm getting new tires in the upcoming week, and I want to make sure that they wear a little better. Also, the roads around here are horrendous so I would like to raise the car back up a tad. In addition, when I installed my Bilsteins, the stock springs make my car have the ricer bouce, and its really annoying. Will Ford C-springs w/ isolators help give me some more ground clearance, stabilize the ride, and reduce the negative camber in the front end? I can probably find a shop around here that will install springs, but I doubt they would install the CC plates for a reasonable price. Thanks!

Oh if anyone is located in Ohio, do you know of any good Mustang shops?
 
Hey dude, I have a 97GT and I still have the factory shocks/struts but installed the Ford Racing "C" Springs. It dropped the front about an inch and half and the back about an inch. I do not have the ricer bounce at all. Actually it rides much better and smoother at highway speeds and takes corners like never before. Not sure how hard/easy it is to install C/C plates but if you are handy with some tools and have a few hours, you can install the springs yourself. I did...:D
 
giddiupstang said:
Hey dude, I have a 97GT and I still have the factory shocks/struts but installed the Ford Racing "C" Springs. It dropped the front about an inch and half and the back about an inch. I do not have the ricer bounce at all. Actually it rides much better and smoother at highway speeds and takes corners like never before. Not sure how hard/easy it is to install C/C plates but if you are handy with some tools and have a few hours, you can install the springs yourself. I did...:D

cool man. I consider myself pretty handy (I've done all the repairs/mods to my car thus far myself) but I don't have access to the right tools out here. I'm relocated away from home for a 6 month co-op, so my hands are tied. Do you notice your front wheels tilting in at all?
 
I just installed my MM CC plates about 15 minutes ago, and it's pretty easy. Just need um:

15mm socket (removing the stock "cc" plates, brake caliper, front swaybar)
2xmm forgot the size (to remove the strut)
14mm (tightening the nuts for the new CC plate)
breaker bar comes in handy
3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets
jack and jackstands

it's all very straight foward, and takes a few hours of your time. if you installed your own struts, you can install cc plates and springs.
 
ok thanks, all i'm saying is I don't have a place to work. I have no jacks, no garage, just a parking space and they prohibit car work in my apartment complex. That's why I would need to either have someone else install them, or just wait 6 months until I get home. I want to get rid of the cut coil stock springs anyway, just wanted to know how bad the camber is off with C springs.

Also, I thought you need to drill holes when you install the CC plates?
 
bdcardinal said:
you need to drill holes with the MM plates. its really easy though, just make sure you have sharp drill bits and a fully recharged battery and measure over and over before you drill.

thanks, thats what I thought. Like I said, I can't install them until December probably. Just looking to see what the camber is like with C springs, to see if they will help me until I can finally get the CC plates installed.
 
stangGT97 said:
thanks, thats what I thought. Like I said, I can't install them until December probably. Just looking to see what the camber is like with C springs, to see if they will help me until I can finally get the CC plates installed.
at the most, should take you about 4 hours. you can stop by a friends house and bang it out on a weekend or so


compared to what drop you have right now, the C's will be better in-spec and you can eyeball measure it until you get to a shop for an alignment
 
tomustang said:
at the most, should take you about 4 hours. you can stop by a friends house and bang it out on a weekend or so


compared to what drop you have right now, the C's will be better in-spec and you can eyeball measure it until you get to a shop for an alignment

ok thanks man. I just moved out here so I don't really know anyone else who gives a rats @ss about cars, hopefully soon enough I'll find someone with a garage that I can use.
 
tomustang said:
well that sucks, there's gotta be some mustangs around where you moved to, *hint* put your location in your profile ;)

haha thanks for the hint, you guys must have thought I was undercover or something. I'm living in Willoughby, Ohio, about 12 miles east of Cleveland. I'll update that info.
 
Camber is always measured in degrees (hopefully negative). As for the amount of change, I don't think its possible to say how much change a specific spring will cause on a specific vehicle without actually doing it and measuring it. Since C-Springs are only about 3/4" lower than stock, the change should be minimal. Many people do C-springs without CC plates and can still get their suspension within factory specs.

One of the big bonuses with CC plates is that you can also increase your castor, which in turn gives you more negative camber when the suspension goes into bump. i.e. better grip in hard cornering without the associated uneven tire wear caused by excessive negative static camber.
 
CdnNavybob said:
Camber is always measured in degrees (hopefully negative). As for the amount of change, I don't think its possible to say how much change a specific spring will cause on a specific vehicle without actually doing it and measuring it. Since C-Springs are only about 3/4" lower than stock, the change should be minimal. Many people do C-springs without CC plates and can still get their suspension within factory specs.

One of the big bonuses with CC plates is that you can also increase your castor, which in turn gives you more negative camber when the suspension goes into bump. i.e. better grip in hard cornering without the associated uneven tire wear caused by excessive negative static camber.

thanks for the good info!