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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

cc plates ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1LowGT
  • Start date Start date Dec 27, 2005
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SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Dec 28, 2005
#21
  • Dec 28, 2005
  • #21
i'm an alignment tech. for goodyear and the ONLY plates i would even consider is the M/M. Steeda is total *****. i would never use them. M/M is the only plate out that gives you all the adjustability that you will ever want!
 

reeber

10 Year Member
Mar 10, 2004
574
26
38
Berlin, NJ
Dec 28, 2005
#22
  • Dec 28, 2005
  • #22
Now... to find someone that knows how to perform good alignment..
 

timeless2

Vi Veri Veni Versum Vicus Vici
Admin Dude
Nov 29, 1999
1,366
202
154
the Shadow Gallery
Dec 28, 2005
#23
  • Dec 28, 2005
  • #23
reeber said:
Now... to find someone that knows how to perform good alignment..
Click to expand...

A rare find, indeed.
 
M

MEandmyKB

New Member
Oct 13, 2005
68
0
0
Feb 16, 2006
#24
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #24
I do NOT understand the "spacers"

Blinkstang said:
I'd go with the Maximum Motorsports 4-Bolt plates. I looked up the ones you mentioned, and the MM Plates are only $20 more. Not sure how good of a deal you are getting, but I have the MM Plates myself and love them.
Click to expand...


Help. Please.
I'm not following these MM instructions very well. I'm almost 2" lower than stock, maybe an inch-and-a-half lower than stock. In Step #1, I got a reading of 1 and 1/8" between the strut shaft and the straight edge. In step #24 it mentions to "place one of the thinnest spacers on top of spherical bearing. Place three remaining spacers under the spherical bearing"

I'm not "stock", but even that step messed me up - what "three remaining spacers" are they talking about? 3 thin? 3 thick? The kit only came with 4 thin and 4 thick spacers to do both sides.

And as for me needing to "position the spacers so that the strut shaft is 1.5" higher than the dimension you recorded in step 1"

...that seems like I'd be at 1/2 inch to nearly 1 full inch above the top of the straight edge, instead of having a gap between the strut shaft and the straight edge. Seems like I'd be punching a hole in my hood if I got an inch above the "straight edge across the fenders"

Can someone give me a clue on what I should be looking for or what my spacer placement should be? Thanks.
 

hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Feb 16, 2006
#25
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #25
SaleenGT2001 said:
i'm an alignment tech. for goodyear and the ONLY plates i would even consider is the M/M. Steeda is total *****. i would never use them. M/M is the only plate out that gives you all the adjustability that you will ever want!
Click to expand...
Kinda harsh on the Steeda's, alignment tech or not . . . . .

I'm a person who does all my own work on my car and my Steeda 4-bolt aluminum plates are all I "need" to get the alignment right on my car. I can also adjust camber or caster independent of each other at an event to dial in what I "need" for a certain set-up.
[URL=http://imageshack.us][/URL]
I am not saying MM plates are not great plates, I have purchased several MM parts over the years and have always had good use out of their products, but in this case I'm very happy with my Steeda plates.
 

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hotrodnut

Member
Jul 12, 2004
672
0
17
North Florida
Feb 16, 2006
#26
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #26
MEandmyKB said:
Seems like I'd be punching a hole in my hood if I got an inch above the "straight edge across the fenders"
Can someone give me a clue on what I should be looking for or what my spacer placement should be? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Even though my plates are Steeda the spacers do the same thing. Look at the picture of mine and notice how far up the strut is and I have no problem with them coming close to the hood. I am using the 2 large spacers up top that came in my kit.
[URL=http://imageshack.us][/URL]
 

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hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
1,940
0
0
albany, oregon
Feb 16, 2006
#27
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #27
reeber said:
is that a joke, or serious? What's different in handling? What's noticeable?
Click to expand...

well testically speaking the upper strut mount is located my the CC plate. MM plates have spherical bearings so they will not deflect as much under load which will maintain you alinement better.

They will transmist some more noise or really bad pavement though. The MM plates are more than just a CC plate they are a decent piece.

the new steeda aluminum 4 bolt CC plates are not a bad solution. i still liked the MM better but they are bothe decent pieces.
 

hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
1,940
0
0
albany, oregon
Feb 16, 2006
#28
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #28
MEandmyKB said:
Help. Please.
I'm not following these MM instructions very well. I'm almost 2" lower than stock, maybe an inch-and-a-half lower than stock. In Step #1, I got a reading of 1 and 1/8" between the strut shaft and the straight edge. In step #24 it mentions to "place one of the thinnest spacers on top of spherical bearing. Place three remaining spacers under the spherical bearing"

I'm not "stock", but even that step messed me up - what "three remaining spacers" are they talking about? 3 thin? 3 thick? The kit only came with 4 thin and 4 thick spacers to do both sides.

And as for me needing to "position the spacers so that the strut shaft is 1.5" higher than the dimension you recorded in step 1"

...that seems like I'd be at 1/2 inch to nearly 1 full inch above the top of the straight edge, instead of having a gap between the strut shaft and the straight edge. Seems like I'd be punching a hole in my hood if I got an inch above the "straight edge across the fenders"

Can someone give me a clue on what I should be looking for or what my spacer placement should be? Thanks.
Click to expand...


you measure the distace from the top of the strut to the top of the fender. sasy it is 1" below just for example. now you lower the car 1" inch. you would set the spacer so that the top of the strut was even with the top of the fender.

the hood is recesed in that area so are fine. In my case I was 1.5 below and lowered the car 1.75 so mine is actually .25 above the fender if I remeber correctly.

basically this allows you to run the stut at it set height. If you did not do this the strut would be compressed 1" over what it was designed for.

now as you can see as you go lower the more dramatic the travel of the strut is affected.
 
M

MEandmyKB

New Member
Oct 13, 2005
68
0
0
Feb 16, 2006
#29
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #29
hognutz said:
you measure the distace from the top of the strut to the top of the fender. sasy it is 1" below just for example. now you lower the car 1" inch. you would set the spacer so that the top of the strut was even with the top of the fender.

the hood is recesed in that area so are fine. In my case I was 1.5 below and lowered the car 1.75 so mine is actually .25 above the fender if I remeber correctly.

basically this allows you to run the stut at it set height. If you did not do this the strut would be compressed 1" over what it was designed for.

now as you can see as you go lower the more dramatic the travel of the strut is affected.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help - Think I'll compromise and go up to the fender straight-line level, instead of going above it.
 

hognutz

New Member
Nov 12, 2002
1,940
0
0
albany, oregon
Feb 16, 2006
#30
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #30
look at your hood when it it open and you will see pockets in it for the strut tops. you should be able to just set the height to what it needs.

personally I would just do one side corectly and then just close the hood gently. I was paranoid like you but I had no issue.
 

blackfang

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
1,290
1
39
Richmond, Va
Feb 16, 2006
#31
  • Feb 16, 2006
  • #31
I just got the MM 4 bolt c/c plates
 
S

san~man

O-G
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,546
3
78
A little grass shack on a big lava rock
Feb 17, 2006
#32
  • Feb 17, 2006
  • #32
tomustang said:
i am putting some of their kids through college
Click to expand...

I paid for last years entire track season and all oil changes
 
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