Changed Diff Fluid, This Look Ok?

onefstsnake · Mar 5, 2006

Well i changed the fluid out of my rear diff and man it smelled bad. :eek:

I managed to snap a few pics during the process. Everything looks good to me.

I also figured out I dont have 4.10 gears I have 3.73's
How can I read the stock gear tag? What numbers should I look for?

Bling Bling

willys1 · Mar 5, 2006

How many miles were on the fluid? Yep,there 373's!

sgarlic · Mar 5, 2006

Dang dude that's a lot of rtv.

bill302 · Mar 5, 2006

man, you have a sludge buildup in there i hope you cleaned it up a bit, i think i would run a couple thousand miles and change it again and see if i could remove some of the buildup in there. that bad smell was the friction modifier you did add new friction modifier did'nt you. and below are the codes that are located on the vehicle certification label follow instructions below.....i suspect your trying to find what gears were installed at factory or are you talking about tag on axle bolt if so looking at the tag with bolt hole to the right top left seq. of numbers and letters are plant code,bottom left is stock gear ratio, center bottom ring gear diameter in inches 8.8,bottom right build date year-month-year....

1= 2.87C
5= 3.27C
7= 3.07C
A= 3.08L
B= 2.47C
F=3.45C
K= 3.55L
ME= 3.27L
VM= 2.73L
Y= 3.08C
2= 3.55C
6= 3.73C
7= 8 2.73C
A= 3.63C
BM= 2.73L
E= 3.27L
HZ= 3.08L
LE= 3.27L
R= 3.45R
W= 3.73L
Z= 3.08L
4= 3.42C
68= 2.73C
8= 2.73C
AM= 2.73L
C= 3.27L
EZ= 3.08L
J = 3.85C
M= 2.73L
SE= 3.27L
X5= 3.27C
Z5= 3.27C

look at your vehicle certification label under where it says TR and match the 1st and/or 2nd number or letter where applicable to number or letter above to the left of the gear sizes and thats your gear size if its still stock the l and c to the right of the gear size represents L=limited-slip differential, C=conventional differential.

bill302 · Mar 5, 2006

oh ya don't forget to change your signature to 3.73's

onefstsnake · Mar 5, 2006

Well here is the tag... Wasnt sure what all that code meant.

Gear wear looks very good. I didnt see any chips or uneven wear.

I dunno if there is alot of sludge in there or not. Might just be the casting.

And I know I went crazy with the RTV, but to it right once and never look back.

I added some Friction Modifier, plus the 80w90 i put in had some in it already.

EDIT: noone has said anything about my gold diff cover???

Roland69 · Mar 5, 2006

gold diff cover looks good.

onefstsnake · Mar 5, 2006

Roland69 said:
gold diff cover looks good.

I didnt have silver and I thought the gold looked pretty pimp. lol :rlaugh:

Some mechanic is gunna be like WTF???

Roland69 · Mar 5, 2006

when in boubt black it out

Mike97gt · Mar 6, 2006

looks fine in there. i like the gold diff cover

onefstsnake · Mar 6, 2006

Im thinking about rebuilding/replacing the diff.

How hard would this be to do without a lift and air tools?
Ive never worked on a full size diff, but it doesnt seem too difficult.

Im used to working on these diffs. lol

GREYFOX4INCH · Mar 6, 2006

what are those for?

onefstsnake · Mar 6, 2006

This

Roland69 · Mar 6, 2006

those are awsome how much is yours worth

bill302 · Mar 6, 2006

onefstsnake said:
Well here is the tag... Wasnt sure what all that code meant.

Gear wear looks very good. I didnt see any chips or uneven wear.

I dunno if there is alot of sludge in there or not. Might just be the casting.

And I know I went crazy with the RTV, but to it right once and never look back.

I added some Friction Modifier, plus the 80w90 i put in had some in it already.

EDIT: noone has said anything about my gold diff cover???

ok this is what i know---the S215C is the manufacturing plant code don't know which plant it stands for but if i find out i will let you know... the 2L73 stands for factory installed 2.73 gears with a Traction- Lok. 8.8 is the ring gear size.. and 2J22 is the build date 2=year,J=month,22=day and thats all i know....

bill302 · Mar 6, 2006

bill302 said:
ok this is what i know---the S215C is the manufacturing plant code don't know which plant it stands for but if i find out i will let you know... the 2L73 stands for factory installed 2.73 gears with a Traction- Lok. 8.8 is the ring gear size.. and 2J22 is the build date 2=year,J=month,22=day and thats all i know....

found some more info---the date code 2J22 means your axle was built on 2=1992---J=10---and 22 means 22nd day of the month.. your axle was built on october 22,1992. good useless info. here.....

bill302 · Mar 6, 2006

bill302 said:
found some more info---the date code 2J22 means your axle was built on 2=1992---J=10---and 22 means 22nd day of the month.. your axle was built on october 22,1992. good useless info. here.....

and heres the rest S = Sterling differential is the manufacturer,215 = Model number,c = Revision identifier. S215C

timewarped1972 · Mar 6, 2006

onefstsnake said:
Im thinking about rebuilding/replacing the diff.

How hard would this be to do without a lift and air tools?
Ive never worked on a full size diff, but it doesnt seem too difficult.

Im used to working on these diffs. lol

if you can do that you could do one in your car. not having a lift isn't a problem but you may want air tools but it can be done with out, and you'll want a torque wrench and all the basic stuff.........

those cars are awesome........i've always wanted to get one of those........(gas powered) whats it cost entry level just for back yard/parking lot play to get into one of them rigs?? have any good links to any web sites about those things?

onefstsnake · Mar 6, 2006

Well those diffs alone will cost you $240

I dont own that truck any more. But it was a blast.

I used to take it to the BMX track and get 25-30' of air easily.
Since the truck was almost completely aluminum nothing broke. Oh and its 7075 aluminum not the cheap 6061.

I had about $2K into it and I raced it in the RC Pro Series on the East Coast.
I parted it out about 3 months ago, and made about $1,200

Here is my newest toy...