A few coats of paint and some wet sanding will NOT take up the slack with a different gear ratio.I am beyond ignorant in this, any information will be helpful.
The mainshaft (or input shaft, sometimes called), must necessarily have more or less teeth (depending on your intended ratio change), so it's diameter must change. For that reason, the matching front gear on the cluster gear must also change diameter, in order to match the meshing of teeth properly.I am beyond ignorant in this, any information will be helpful.
1st gear ratio is a combination of gear teeth counts between the input shaft, the countergear, and the number of teeth on 1st. The diameters are specific, so changing gears requires a slight change to the mating gear, so as a result, most gearsets are sold in a set consisting of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and a countergear and input shaft......
I could be described as "shaft-happy", considering the ones I had to splice together to mate a top-loader mainshaft to a B/W HD O/D input, and a Dana 35 Transfer Case input.........impI hope you don't get your 'shafts' mixed up too often
My goof-up. I saw his wording "main input shaft", and understood him to be referring to the INPUT shaft, which engages the clutch disc, and provides the drive for the cluster gear. "High" gear is picked off the input shaft, which connects it to the MAINSHAFT, which is the output shaft of the transmission. Sorry. imp
The biggest stepup the z spec got was a real bearing on the input shaft, not those 13 (I think) individual roller bearings. I have a completely disassembled t5 in a box with a rebuild kit and a reconditioned input shaft that got roached where the input shaft and those rollers gauled it all up. I was gathering parts when one day on CL there was a new IN THE BOX T5Z that I got for $1100. I would trade that (less than 2000) miles for a needing to be rebuilt 3550 or TKO500. I fear I may need a little more for my 351 swap.
I just checked in to the A5 rebuild kit and it seems to be on a long back order. I heard there is an issue with the company that makes the gear sets for Astro. Something about a son taking over the company and screwing things up for Astro.1st gear ratio is a combination of gear teeth counts between the input shaft, the countergear, and the number of teeth on 1st. The diameters are specific, so changing gears requires a slight change to the mating gear, so as a result, most gearsets are sold in a set consisting of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and a countergear and input shaft.
Other than the very early non-WC gearsets, the lowest T-5 gearset available is the T-5Z spec with the 2.95 1st gear. Buying a real tremec set is VERY expensive, although it's a bit more manageable with the aftermarket gears many are making these days. Astroperformance is selling a Z-spec countergear for $100 for example (aftermarket).
Add up the cost of all the gears, and it may cause you to rethink it however. Rebuilding T5's used to be cheap, but now it's not anymore.
I have a parts T5 that I'm strongly debating a 2.95 gearset build with, but I should really go with an astro performance build.
My question would be why do you want to change the first gear ratio?
On a lower powered car (not saying yours is) the longer first gear robs the car of some fun.
I had a t5z and have a tko600, when the car had much lower hp, I didn't like either, so much so that before the terminator conversion I was going to goto 4.10's to compensate.
That's kind of interesting. I was thinking along the lines that the sc engine will have too much torque for that 3.35 first gear.My question would be why do you want to change the first gear ratio?
On a lower powered car (not saying yours is) the longer first gear robs the car of some fun.
I had a t5z and have a tko600, when the car had much lower hp, I didn't like either, so much so that before the terminator conversion I was going to goto 4.10's to compensate.
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