Charging
- Thread starter Buckstang
- Start date
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I'm not sure about anybody else following this but this is confusing, here is what I understand:
3g swap worked fine
swapped heads, now charging problems, alternator checked out good.
Installed aftermarket gauges using stock wiring. What brand gauges used? Installed per instructions? Iron or aluminum heads?
3g swap worked fine
swapped heads, now charging problems, alternator checked out good.
Installed aftermarket gauges using stock wiring. What brand gauges used? Installed per instructions? Iron or aluminum heads?
There is a voltage sensing wire that connects to the starter solenoid (white wire?) Is it still there? Here is the excerpt from the 3g swap page:
You will need to remove the factory tape from the harness to expose the union of the two 10 gauge wires which are black with an orange stripe. This D shaped plug with the two large 10 gauge wires also has a very small white with black stripe wire. This wire will be cut off the terminal and used on the 3G in a different location. Once the location of the 10g wire has been found, cut the union and tape or use a butt join to cover up the end of the 10 gauge wire. This wire will still have power since we will need to leave the wire hooked up at the starter solenoid due to the voltage sensing wire that shares the fuse link.
You will need to remove the factory tape from the harness to expose the union of the two 10 gauge wires which are black with an orange stripe. This D shaped plug with the two large 10 gauge wires also has a very small white with black stripe wire. This wire will be cut off the terminal and used on the 3G in a different location. Once the location of the 10g wire has been found, cut the union and tape or use a butt join to cover up the end of the 10 gauge wire. This wire will still have power since we will need to leave the wire hooked up at the starter solenoid due to the voltage sensing wire that shares the fuse link.
Hey guys I narrowed it down to the green wire on the regulator plug it's not getting no power so I have seen a few videos where guys either straight wire that wire to a 12v that goes on and off with the car or just splice the wire on the instrument cluster and connected 12v there is that the right thing to do or is it another way
Blown88GT
Founding Member
@Buckstang
Post #20 gave you everything you needed to find and fix the problem.
It seems that more and more people don't seem to digest written instructions well. I haven't figured out how to chop it up in a blender and make baby food out of them yet...
You need to have either a 5 amp inline fuse or a 500Ω resistor in the 12 volt wire you added to prevent damage in case a short circuit to ground develops. The fuse or resistor needs to go closest to the source where you tapped the 12volt from. If you tapped the gage illumination power, you will have charging problems every time you dim the instrument lights.
Post #20 gave you everything you needed to find and fix the problem.
It seems that more and more people don't seem to digest written instructions well. I haven't figured out how to chop it up in a blender and make baby food out of them yet...
You need to have either a 5 amp inline fuse or a 500Ω resistor in the 12 volt wire you added to prevent damage in case a short circuit to ground develops. The fuse or resistor needs to go closest to the source where you tapped the 12volt from. If you tapped the gage illumination power, you will have charging problems every time you dim the instrument lights.
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