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Charging

  • Thread starter Thread starter Buckstang
  • Start date Start date May 12, 2019
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Buckstang

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May 12, 2019
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Augusta GA
May 20, 2019
#21
  • May 20, 2019
  • #21
So I went through the check and my green and red wire reading 0 v so do I rerun a wire from there to the dash cause I'm running aftermarket gauges and still using the instrument panel harness
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
May 23, 2019
#22
  • May 23, 2019
  • #22
I'm not sure about anybody else following this but this is confusing, here is what I understand:
3g swap worked fine
swapped heads, now charging problems, alternator checked out good.
Installed aftermarket gauges using stock wiring. What brand gauges used? Installed per instructions? Iron or aluminum heads?
 
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Buckstang

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May 12, 2019
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Augusta GA
May 23, 2019
#23
  • May 23, 2019
  • #23
Let me put it in a nutshell I used the charging guide they have on here and my green wire on my alternator has no power or voltage now I'm wondering how do I fix it using aftermarket gauges and I have prosport gauges and I used the lmr wiring harness for aftermarket gauges
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
27,827
10,508
203
polk county florida
May 23, 2019
#24
  • May 23, 2019
  • #24
There is a voltage sensing wire that connects to the starter solenoid (white wire?) Is it still there? Here is the excerpt from the 3g swap page:
You will need to remove the factory tape from the harness to expose the union of the two 10 gauge wires which are black with an orange stripe. This D shaped plug with the two large 10 gauge wires also has a very small white with black stripe wire. This wire will be cut off the terminal and used on the 3G in a different location. Once the location of the 10g wire has been found, cut the union and tape or use a butt join to cover up the end of the 10 gauge wire. This wire will still have power since we will need to leave the wire hooked up at the starter solenoid due to the voltage sensing wire that shares the fuse link.
 
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Buckstang

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May 12, 2019
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Augusta GA
May 24, 2019
#25
  • May 24, 2019
  • #25
Hey guys I narrowed it down to the green wire on the regulator plug it's not getting no power so I have seen a few videos where guys either straight wire that wire to a 12v that goes on and off with the car or just splice the wire on the instrument cluster and connected 12v there is that the right thing to do or is it another way
 

Blown88GT

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1999
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Palm Beach Gardens, FL
May 25, 2019
#26
  • May 25, 2019
  • #26
Alternator warning indicator (lamp) is burned out, replace it.
 
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Buckstang

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May 12, 2019
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Augusta GA
May 25, 2019
#27
  • May 25, 2019
  • #27
Ion know what it was but since I'm running aftermarket gauges I just ran a 12v to the and everything is running fine thank you
 

jrichker

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May 26, 2019
#28
  • May 26, 2019
  • #28
@Buckstang
Post #20 gave you everything you needed to find and fix the problem.
It seems that more and more people don't seem to digest written instructions well. I haven't figured out how to chop it up in a blender and make baby food out of them yet...

You need to have either a 5 amp inline fuse or a 500Ω resistor in the 12 volt wire you added to prevent damage in case a short circuit to ground develops. The fuse or resistor needs to go closest to the source where you tapped the 12volt from. If you tapped the gage illumination power, you will have charging problems every time you dim the instrument lights.
 
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