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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Cheap way to lower a notchback?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 1961Mustang
  • Start date Start date Mar 4, 2012
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wythors

Get off my lawn!!!
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May 17, 2000
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Mar 5, 2012
#21
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #21
Want2GoFaster said:
From what I've read about them, the SVE springs will give a stock ride feel only about 2" lower because they have the same spring rate as stock - just 2" shorter.
Click to expand...

Since the stock springs are variable rate, this is BS.
 

79dog

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Sunny Fl.
Mar 5, 2012
#22
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #22
if your looking for a cheap way to lower the car why not just get a hack saw and cut the spring u got?
 

ID89GT

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May 26, 2008
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Mar 5, 2012
#23
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #23
I have bbk springs in mine. Ride quality ain't horrible and its just the perfect height imo.
 

Want2GoFaster

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#24
  • Mar 5, 2012
  • #24
wythors said:
Since the stock springs are variable rate, this is BS.
Click to expand...
I thought stock springs were linear rate...? I must have confused specific-rate with linear. I stand corrected
 
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1961Mustang

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My MOm's Basement, Delaware
Mar 6, 2012
#25
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #25
Bullitt347 said:
The springs where they meet the metal are not "moving parts". There is no difference in ride quality or noise by not using the isolators. I have performed lowing spring installs on Fox Body and newer cars at least 100 times and never had a customer complain, ever. I had a few customers supply the isolator and request they be installed, which I did, but no one who did not have them ever complained or came back to have them installed. I also in 20 years of doing this have never seen a "wear" issue from lack of isolators.
Click to expand...
. I live in the "rust belt" but my car sits all winter (as all rust belt mustangs should) so I don't think rust is an issue. I think I'll end up getting the isolaters because I'm getting the SVE springs. I'll see how it feels without, and if needed, install them.
 
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1961Mustang

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Mar 6, 2012
#26
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #26
wouldnt a shock tower brace be in the trunk? Lol
 
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1961Mustang

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Feb 20, 2010
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#27
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #27
Well thanks for all the advise, time to call LRS and place an order: Kyb gas-a-just shock and strut kit, pinion snubber, fr and rear isolaters (maybe use, maybe not) set of lowering springs. Later on, if needed, MaxImum Motorsports CC's, strut tower brace, and subframes. I will post pics when I'm done. Thanks all!
 

Bullitt347

I have been doing it wrong this whole time
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#28
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #28
You will find that the sub-frame connecters do wonders for ride quality. Instead of the chassis flexing and the suspension not doing as much work, the chassis will be stiffer and the suspension will be able to do it's job better and result in a better ride. I always recommend that sub-frame connectors be the first modification performed.
 

FastDriver

I was uncomfortably high & wearing a helmet
SN Certified Technician
Sep 5, 2001
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Mar 6, 2012
#29
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #29
+1 for cutting the springs. I think some will tell you not to do this, but I really don't know why not. Just don't get greedy and take too much, and don't use a torch and heat the springs - IMO that's not a smart way to do it.
 

RUNINAGT

Member
Oct 3, 2005
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CHARLESTON S.C.
Mar 6, 2012
#30
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #30
Mine are cut. They were cut a looooooong time ago. Don't remember how much got cut off or how low it made it. I want it to sit a bit lower and have been thinking about replacing them. But it looks like if I'm gonna replace them then I will need to replace the struts/shocks at the same time. Do i need to have the cc plates to? I do not want to make the ride rougher than what it already is. When you hit a joint where a bridge starts that is not smooth, well you feel it.

I am thinking to do the sf connectors next.
 

rbonella

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#31
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #31
On the cheap.....cut em.....costs zero dollars lol
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
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Mar 6, 2012
#32
  • Mar 6, 2012
  • #32
1961Mustang said:
Hey it's always good to revisit a new way to do old tricks, right? I know there are lots of new products that have been introduced since the last thread on this subject, so: I want to drop my notch about 2". I figure I will need lowering springs, caster/camber plates, and a shock tower brace. What else do I need? I'm on a budget and I want to do as much as I can by myself to save money. I want to have everything I need to complete this project so my car is disabled for the shortest time, and I don't want to get into a situation where I am 90% done but have to wait two weeks for a part I forgot to order. Thanks for any help and advise!
Click to expand...

All you "need" to drop the car is a set of lowering springs. Of course, everything else would help make it handle better. (shocks, struts, cc-plates, STB, SFC, control arms, etc)

That said, Foxes don't handle or ride very well with a two inch drop. Been there, done that, many times.

As was mentioned before the Eibach Pro Kit springs are a decent all around setup.
 
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