Cheapest bang for the buck...

AnthonyR23 · Jun 6, 2007

Here is a list of mods... very minimal mods... what do you think should be next... what do you think technically would be the best bang for the buck after....

65MM TB and EGR Spacer, bbk equal length headers, underdrive pulleys, cai, other than that basically stock... other than the mark 8 fan, 3 g alt, a/c delete, also did basic tune up stuff.. new vacuum lines, plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, etc. also had to replace the sway bar end links with a poly kit.. and got new poly motor mounts... plan on trying to replace other parts with polyurethane as needed...

I definetely don't use this car as a daily driver.... drive a little toyota tercel.... mustang is just my occasional driver...

I think the next thing on the list other than the full length subframe connectors that I just ordered and the spal fan controller is new gears.. Definetely am leaninng towards 4.10's..

So other than the above... what do you think the 5 best things you can do to get a bit of extra hp without breaking the bank?? Think gears should be the next mod on my list... ?? Haven't done anything spectaculor to increase my car from stock..

stykthyn · Jun 6, 2007

gears would be the biggest bangg for your buck. sub frames are right up there too. cant go wrong with either of those.

jrichker · Jun 6, 2007

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

Aluminum driveshaft: (courtesy of shawn13) It needs to be from a 92-93-94 Aerostar AWD and you will need the u-joint, part #353 from NAPA. It should bolt right up after the u-joint swap.

AnthonyR23 · Jun 6, 2007

Thanks Jrichker ... great info!!

SVT32VDOHC · Jun 6, 2007

If that is a convertible, I would most definately get sub frame connectors next. I drove a 94 GT vert with them then another 95 GT vert next without them...wow what a difference. The FOX bodies handled worse than the 94-04's, so I would do that fore sure. Then go 3.73 gears with a stick car. If it is an auto, just leave the gears alone, because they screw with your shifting points.

Modular2v · Jun 6, 2007

NITROUS of course!

AnthonyR23 · Jun 6, 2007

ya other than fixing a pesky exhaust leak... subframes are next on my list... about the exhaust leak.. lowered the h pipe down.... readjusted.. made sure it mated up nice.. adjusted the clamps I had to make sure they are decently holding it up there... had to make the hole the h pipe goes in a little thinner.. used high temp silicon on the flange.. where the h pipe meets the headers.. but still have a slight chirping... just went out and bought some of that cold weld stuff.. for exhaust leaks... so am gonna give that a try... was wondering if those exhaust wraps would work???

Anyways though about the best bang for the buck.. I definetely agree that getting those subframes that I ordered welded on should be a priority.. then was really liking the idea of going with 4.10's hardly ever use the 4th or 5th gear... don't drive the car much... only as a occassional driver... and have no problem with having to shift more... then I was thinking of a short throw shifter....

What would the difference be if I drove a car without the 4.10's then one with... very noticable???

Mustank · Jun 7, 2007

^^^ To say that it's "noticeable" is a gross understatement.

Maryland Stang · Jun 7, 2007

Before you jump into the 4.10s there is something to consider. With 4.10s your first gear will be almost useless. I have 3.73s now and when I put the power down now I have to feather the throttle a lot to keep it from burning the tires off on street tires. Since the guy who installed my gears really screwed it up I'm getting them replaced again. I could have gone with any gear I wanted to but stuck with the 3.73s because of the first gear issue.

You also need to determine what direction you're going with the car before you buy anything else. I'm a firm believer in prepping the car for it's intended purpose before you do engine mods and that way the car is able to handle the power when you do your engine mods.

So are you going for straight line or are you gonna be a corner carver?

tmoss · Jun 7, 2007

jrichkers suggestions as well as others are excelent, but since budget is a concern you can port your lower intake for much less than the cost of the Explorer and average power will be a little higher too on the E7 heads. If you have the tools or invest in them, my website shows you how to do it yourself.

Shakerhood · Jun 7, 2007

Although the majority of Stangs already have this done, removal of the Air Silencer and bumping the timing up.

Cheapest bang for the buck...

AnthonyR23

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I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

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I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

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