Hey guys,
I would appreciate any help with this as it's about to get me down.
I just completed a T5 to C4 conversion.
While in the process, I removed the clutch pedal, and jumpered both connectors that plug into the clutch pedal.
Under the car, there were two connectors as well, a 2 prong plug, and a 4 prong plug.
I currently have the red/blue and white/pink wires on the 4 prong plug routed through my neutral safety switch. The black wire and the purple/orange wires are routed through my reverse switch.
The 2 prong plug is hanging in the breeze.
I can start the car (but only when the shifter is in Park or Neutral as it should be) and the reverse lights come on when the shifter goes into reverse.
The only other electrical modification that I did was to pull the low-oil level switch out of the side of the oil pan (it was leaking like a sieve) and replace it with just a regular 22mm drain plug. The low-oil switch and wire are also at this point hanging in the breeze.
I got the car fired up and immediately heard the sound of a bad exhaust leak and the check engine light came on. I continued topping off the C4's fluid level, then shut the car off to fix the exhaust leak. The exhaust leak was bad and it caused the engine to run rich; I would attribute this to extra air flowing by the O2 sensors.
The exhaust leak was fixed, but the check engine light still comes on. I disconnected the battery, then reconnected it. About 5 seconds after the engine start, the light came back on.
I then went to Autozone and bought a code scanner. I hooked it up as instructed, turned the key on, and the check engine light still stayed lit. It never flashed, even once.
I ditched the code scanner and just used a paperclip to jump between the two diagnostic connectors, thinking that maybe I received a bad scanner. I got the same results.
I've heard a few say that I need to check the ground that went to the bellhousing bolt, but I didn't have one of those. I have a braided ground strap that goes from the firewall to the driver's side cylinder head. I do not remember disconnecting any ground straps when I pulled the T5 out.
The car idles fine and seems to take the gas well, but with road conditions here, I haven't had it out of the garage yet.
Does anyone have any ideas as to why the scanner won't bring the codes off? I've tried both KOEO and KOER, with the same results.
BTW, this is on a 1990 LX Hatchback V8.
I would appreciate any help with this as it's about to get me down.
I just completed a T5 to C4 conversion.
While in the process, I removed the clutch pedal, and jumpered both connectors that plug into the clutch pedal.
Under the car, there were two connectors as well, a 2 prong plug, and a 4 prong plug.
I currently have the red/blue and white/pink wires on the 4 prong plug routed through my neutral safety switch. The black wire and the purple/orange wires are routed through my reverse switch.
The 2 prong plug is hanging in the breeze.
I can start the car (but only when the shifter is in Park or Neutral as it should be) and the reverse lights come on when the shifter goes into reverse.
The only other electrical modification that I did was to pull the low-oil level switch out of the side of the oil pan (it was leaking like a sieve) and replace it with just a regular 22mm drain plug. The low-oil switch and wire are also at this point hanging in the breeze.
I got the car fired up and immediately heard the sound of a bad exhaust leak and the check engine light came on. I continued topping off the C4's fluid level, then shut the car off to fix the exhaust leak. The exhaust leak was bad and it caused the engine to run rich; I would attribute this to extra air flowing by the O2 sensors.
The exhaust leak was fixed, but the check engine light still comes on. I disconnected the battery, then reconnected it. About 5 seconds after the engine start, the light came back on.
I then went to Autozone and bought a code scanner. I hooked it up as instructed, turned the key on, and the check engine light still stayed lit. It never flashed, even once.
I ditched the code scanner and just used a paperclip to jump between the two diagnostic connectors, thinking that maybe I received a bad scanner. I got the same results.
I've heard a few say that I need to check the ground that went to the bellhousing bolt, but I didn't have one of those. I have a braided ground strap that goes from the firewall to the driver's side cylinder head. I do not remember disconnecting any ground straps when I pulled the T5 out.
The car idles fine and seems to take the gas well, but with road conditions here, I haven't had it out of the garage yet.
Does anyone have any ideas as to why the scanner won't bring the codes off? I've tried both KOEO and KOER, with the same results.
BTW, this is on a 1990 LX Hatchback V8.