OK my check engine light comes on only after driving for a little while and if I turn off the car it is reset and will come on again after 10 - 15 minutes. I'm guessing its a bad sensor, but can't check the codes until the weekend. Does anyone want to speculate on what it could be. THe car idles fine and there is no obvious sounds. It does this whether I am driving normal or driving with a heavy foot. OK guys what do you think I can check. I also want to say that the engine temp is relatively low and all the fluids are full, if that makes a difference.
Check engine light comes on after 10-15 minutes of driving???
- Thread starter deltusurf
- Start date
SilikonBlu
New Member
- Apr 20, 2004
- 23
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I had a similar issue on another EEC-IV controlled vehicle. I changed sensor after sensor with no luck. After warming up the vehicle (10-15mins), the check engine light would come on and stay that way. Shutting it off (and letting it cool down) would make the problem disappear. The codes I was getting related to a rich mixture and the problem turned out to be a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Other telltale signs were sooty exhaust and decreased mileage.
IMPORTSMOKER
Member
Hey, what ever your problem is..I am having the exact same problem! It all started directly after putting my off-road x-pipe on, I havnt pulled the codes but I think I might have contaminated an o2 sensor and want to find out if this is before replacing the sensors.....I need help also!
NKau
Founding Member
Don't take my word as gold, but my car does the same thing, but I know the 02's could be at fault, because the wiring to one of them is clipped. CEL comes on after a good 10-15 minutes of driving without fail. Only way to know for sure is to pull the codes though. Good luck.
cevtv
Founding Member
flying high
Founding Member
Legendary
Founding Member
Well my car does the samething so I'll be wacthing this one.
Come on Deltusurf, the fate of the world is on your shoulders!!
Come on Deltusurf, the fate of the world is on your shoulders!!
It takes less than 5 minutes to do the paper clip dump of the codes. Do it now, and by Friday evening you can have all the parts in hand so when Saturday rolls around you can jump on it.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
RESULTS!
Ok guys here are the results for my particular case. I'm not sure on the particular "code" that I was triggering. I did read off the screen that my O2 sensor was sending erratic signals, and that I was supposed to check and see if there was a fluid leak that might have caused interference with the contacts. I looked under the car and notice that the connector was covered with dirt and grime. He told me that I could try and clean the connector with brake cleaner. Then open the connector to clean the inside as well. He said that should do the trick, but in a worst case scenario I would have to replace my O2 sensor. I'm going to clean the connector, thanks for your help guys
Ok guys here are the results for my particular case. I'm not sure on the particular "code" that I was triggering. I did read off the screen that my O2 sensor was sending erratic signals, and that I was supposed to check and see if there was a fluid leak that might have caused interference with the contacts. I looked under the car and notice that the connector was covered with dirt and grime. He told me that I could try and clean the connector with brake cleaner. Then open the connector to clean the inside as well. He said that should do the trick, but in a worst case scenario I would have to replace my O2 sensor. I'm going to clean the connector, thanks for your help guys
good on you for getting the codes and doing it right. no sense in guessing and wasting money on parts.
might not hurt to put some dielectric grease inside the connector once you clean it. i think those with access to a Probst manual can tell you what the readings should be (come to think of it, i think they are listed in the repair manuals - i think my Haynes has them). might check to see what voltage it is sending at what temps, since you will be messing with at least one of them anyhow....
good luck and glad to hear it sounds like you have it figured out!
might not hurt to put some dielectric grease inside the connector once you clean it. i think those with access to a Probst manual can tell you what the readings should be (come to think of it, i think they are listed in the repair manuals - i think my Haynes has them). might check to see what voltage it is sending at what temps, since you will be messing with at least one of them anyhow....
good luck and glad to hear it sounds like you have it figured out!
IMPORTSMOKER
Member
I had to get back online to let you guys know how it turned out, I got under the car and cleaned both sensors and then took the car out for a drive 45 minutes and no Check engine light. Now its time for a new radiator, I'll be online looking for one tonight.
Import smoker.... I have had my x pipe on the car for about 3 years, this is the first check engine light.
Import smoker.... I have had my x pipe on the car for about 3 years, this is the first check engine light.
IMPORTSMOKER
Member
obviously i dont know what he used, but some electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner, or even carb cleaner should work. a wire brush used delicately can help clean corrosion off of terminals if necessary.IMPORTSMOKER said:
good luck.
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