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Check engine light with new MAF?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JChalfan
  • Start date Start date Jun 11, 2006

JChalfan

Member
Nov 27, 2002
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0
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Bellevue, WA
Jun 11, 2006
#1
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #1
I installed my new Pro-Flow MAF last week, and a couple days ago I noticed that my check engine light started coming on intermitently. Usually for about a minute at a time, but it's not on most of the time.

I checked for codes, and found a code 66, "MAF signal low". Is it normal for this to happen with an aftermarket MAF, or should I be contacting the manufacturer?

The car does seem to run fine.

Thanks.

Jeff
 

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#2
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #2
It sounds like you have a MAF problem. I would plan on retuning the MAF to the manufacturer.

Here's the code 66 test path.

Code 66 MAF below minimum test voltage.
Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it.

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

The MAF output varies with RPM which causes the airflow to increase or decease. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow. Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer.

At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring. Pin D on the MAF and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF and ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp
 

JChalfan

Member
Nov 27, 2002
551
0
16
Bellevue, WA
Jun 11, 2006
#3
  • Jun 11, 2006
  • #3
Ok, it looks like I'll be calling the manufacturer tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.

Jeff
 

JChalfan

Member
Nov 27, 2002
551
0
16
Bellevue, WA
Jun 12, 2006
#4
  • Jun 12, 2006
  • #4
The MAF came with an adaptor piece to go from the oval connector to the rectangular one on the new MAF, and somehow that managed to work loose. Plugged it back in, and it's working great. I'll have to keep an eye on that.

Of course maybe I'm just dumb, and never plugged it in all the way.


Jeff
 
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