It connects up in the same place as the jumper method to dump the codes.Hello again everyone. I've tried everything mentioned and still not able to get the cel to go off. I'm going to buy the code reader. Does that just connect under the hood where jump wire would go?
ever resetDid you ever reset the codes from before?
If not, perform a reset, then drive the car a bit and then retest. Dobyoir retest with the engine hot, to avoid a false code 21
To reset the codes. Plug code reader in. Turn ignition to on. Hit test/hold. The codes will start to flash in about 10 seconds. When they do, hit test/hold again, and then turn ignition off.
Start engine and do short drive. With engine hot, do a retest. As soon as the koeo codes are done, start the engine and get the koer codes.
Kinda odd you got a code 67 with a factory v8 AOD car.
Did you ever reset the codes from before?
If not, perform a reset, then drive the car a bit and then retest. Dobyoir retest with the engine hot, to avoid a false code 21
To reset the codes. Plug code reader in. Turn ignition to on. Hit test/hold. The codes will start to flash in about 10 seconds. When they do, hit test/hold again, and then turn ignition off.
Start engine and do short drive. With engine hot, do a retest. As soon as the koeo codes are done, start the engine and get the koer codes.
Kinda odd you got a code 67 with a factory v8 AOD car.
You don't really need to drive it. The koeo codes you can run right away, and the koer codes will be more accurate if you can at least idle the car for a bit and get it all warm.
You can just tackle the koeo and CM codes for now, but if engine is stone cold, you get a false code 21.
Reset and rerun as some of those codes are instant, and others could be stored in there for a while
Code 22 is the BAP sensor on the firewall. Unplug and inspect it? Is it cracked?
I believe the Canister has been deleted on my car. The BAP sensor appears to be damaged. What does that do?
Code 85 is charcoal canister located imat front pass lower side of bay. There's a solenoid on the vac line to intake. Is it there and plugged in?
That is correct. You need to cure code 67 to move on.
reach up under dash where a phantom clutch pedal would be. You'll see two plugshanging loose. One has a jumper in it (starter circuit) and the other won't have anything.
Stick a 5 amp blade fuse in there, and that should cure the code 67 and allow you to proceed.
Of course, prob need to address it the correct way eventually
There is no canister there or vac line? Is there a way to bypass it so that it doesn't throw a code?
If I'm understanding correctly. I can still run the KOER codes once I bypass the 67 code?
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