• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Check Engine Light??

  • Thread starter Thread starter Foxfirst846
  • Start date Start date Jan 24, 2017
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Next
First Prev 3 of 5 Next Last

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,813
234
Dublin GA
Mar 18, 2017
#41
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #41
Foxfirst846 said:
There is no canister there or vac line? Is there a way to bypass it so that it doesn't throw a code?
Click to expand...
There is, but it is pointless to do so. If this was a race car, only driven on the race track there is a way to get rid of the code. The same trick works for missing TAB and TAD solenoids
You still need a proper way to vent the gas tank and not have the garage stink like gas vapors.

Code 85 CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing.

Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.

Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

Connecting the gas tank vent line directly to the intake manifold will result in fuel vapor being constantly sucked into the intake manifold. There is unmetered fuel that the computer cannot adjust for. The result is poor idle and poor fuel economy.



It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:


Code 67
Revised 18-Mar-2017 to include warning about the necessity of having a 5 speed O2 Sensor wiring harness when bypassing the wiring for test purposes

Cause of problem:
Clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral (5 speed and auto) or not in park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code will prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only. Do not do this unless you are sure that you have a 5 speed O2 Sensor harness!!!! Smoke, sparks and expensive pain in the wallet may ensue if you don’t.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 18, 2017
#42
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #42
You said something was broken with the shifter? You park it in nuetral and ysnk the e brake?
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#43
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #43
Yes I bought this car from what I'm guessing was a beginning mechanic. They never adjusted the linkage under the car so they left it in neutral and pulled the e brake instead of doing it the right way...

Mustang5L5 said:
You said something was broken with the shifter? You park it in nuetral and ysnk the e brake?
Click to expand...
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#44
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #44
It's not that I want to remove it... It's that I think previous owner already removed it and bypassed it...

jrichker said:
There is, but it is pointless to do so. If this was a race car, only driven on the race track there is a way to get rid of the code. The same trick works for missing TAB and TAD solenoids
You still need a proper way to vent the gas tank and not have the garage stink like gas vapors.

Code 85 CANP solenoid - The Carbon Canister solenoid is inoperative or missing.

Revised 11 –Jan_2015 to add warning about vacuum leaks due to deteriorated hose or missing caps on vacuum lines when the solenoid is removed.

Check vacuum lines for leaks and cracks. Check electrical wiring for loose connections, damaged wiring and insulation. Check solenoid valve operation by grounding the gray/yellow wire to the solenoid and blowing through it.
The computer provides the ground for the solenoid. The red wire to the solenoid is always energized any time the ignition switch is in the run position.

If you disconnected the carbon canister and failed to properly cap the vacuum line coming from under the upper intake manifold, you will have problems. You will also have problems if the remaining hose coming from under the upper intake manifold or caps for the vacuum line are sucking air.

Charcoal canister plumbing - one 3/8" tube from the bottom of the upper manifold to the rubber hose. Rubber hose connects to one side of the canister solenoid valve. Other side of the solenoid valve connects to one side of the canister. The other side of the canister connects to a rubber hose that connects to a line that goes all the way back to the gas tank. There is an electrical connector coming from the passenger side injector harness near #1 injector that plugs into the canister solenoid valve. It's purpose is to vent the gas tank. The solenoid valve opens at cruse to provide some extra fuel. The canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.

Connecting the gas tank vent line directly to the intake manifold will result in fuel vapor being constantly sucked into the intake manifold. There is unmetered fuel that the computer cannot adjust for. The result is poor idle and poor fuel economy.



It does not weigh but a pound or so and helps richen up the cruse mixture. It draws no HP & keeps the car from smelling like gasoline in a closed garage. So with all these good things and no bad ones, why not hook it up & use it?


The purge valve solenoid connector is a dangling wire that is near the ECT sensor and oil filler on the passenger side rocker cover. The actual solenoid valve is down next to the carbon canister. There is about 12"-16" of wire that runs parallel to the canister vent hose that comes off the bottom side of the upper intake manifold. That hose connects one port of the solenoid valve; the other port connects to the carbon canister.

The purge valve solenoid should be available at your local auto parts store.

Purge valve solenoid:



The carbon canister is normally mounted on the passenger side frame rail near the smog pump pulley.
Carbon Canister:


Code 67
Revised 18-Mar-2017 to include warning about the necessity of having a 5 speed O2 Sensor wiring harness when bypassing the wiring for test purposes

Cause of problem:
Clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral (5 speed and auto) or not in park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code will prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests.

External evidence from other sources claims that a code 67 can cause an idle surge condition. Do try to find and fix any issues with the switch and wiring if you get a code 67.

What the NSS (Neutral Safety Switch) does:
5 speed transmission: It has no connection with the starter, and the engine can be cranked without it being connected.
Auto transmission: It is the safety interlock that prevents the starter from cranking the engine with the transmission in gear.
What it does for both 5 speed and auto transmission cars:
The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running computer diagnostic tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral (5 speed and auto transmission) and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The following is for 5 speed cars only. Do not do this unless you are sure that you have a 5 speed O2 Sensor harness!!!! Smoke, sparks and expensive pain in the wallet may ensue if you don’t.
The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

Click to expand...
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 18, 2017
#45
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #45
I wouldn't lose sleep over 85 right now.

34 sounds like the EGR diaphragm is busted, so you'll prob need to replace the entire valve. However, this code disables the EGR function in ECU, sobit shouldn't affect how car runs.

I'd be focused on getting rid of the code 67 first and the BAP sensor that's damaged
 
Reactions: General karthief
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#46
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #46
Any other ideas how to clear the 67 code? I'm not sure what the previous owner did to throw this code...

Mustang5L5 said:
I wouldn't lose sleep over 85 right now.

34 sounds like the EGR diaphragm is busted, so you'll prob need to replace the entire valve. However, this code disables the EGR function in ECU, sobit shouldn't affect how car runs.

I'd be focused on getting rid of the code 67 first and the BAP sensor that's damaged
Click to expand...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,915
10,565
203
polk county florida
Mar 18, 2017
#47
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #47
Try adjusting the linkage so it hits the right detents in the trans.
Look for the switch hanging by the column at the brake pedal.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 18, 2017
#48
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #48
Tied to the trans. If you aren't getting it in park properly or the linkage is that messed up, it's not getting the nuetral signal on the trans harness to ECU.

Do your reverse lights work? They share the same harness. That confirms its at least plugged in.

Could always unplug and jump the harness out
 
Reactions: jrichker
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#49
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #49
I will have to check the reverse lights. Have to wait for a buddy so he can tell me.. Can't be two places at once. If the lights work then what's my next options? If they don't work what then?

Mustang5L5 said:
Tied to the trans. If you aren't getting it in park properly or the linkage is that messed up, it's not getting the nuetral signal on the trans harness to ECU.

Do your reverse lights work? They share the same harness. That confirms its at least plugged in.

Could always unplug and jump the harness out
Click to expand...
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#50
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #50
Is this the wire or switch that I should be looking for?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0235.webp
    45.9 KB · Views: 200

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 18, 2017
#51
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #51
Those are the two under the dash that normally connect to clutch pedal. I figured a 5 amp fuse on the clear plug would jump out the code 67 but aparentky AODs are wired a tad different.

The harness you'll need to look at is under the car plugged into the AOD
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,915
10,565
203
polk county florida
Mar 18, 2017
#52
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #52
Turn the key to run, put shifter in reverse go look at the lights, just don't start the car.
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 18, 2017
#53
  • Mar 18, 2017
  • #53
Just tried this... No lights... So that means it's not plugged in somewhere or it's bad. Right? On an AOD where do I check for Connections?

karthief said:
Turn the key to run, put shifter in reverse go look at the lights, just don't start the car.
Click to expand...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,915
10,565
203
polk county florida
Mar 19, 2017
#54
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #54
First thing to do is adjust your shift linkage
If it was a swap from a stick your problems mybe in the difference in harnesses.
Start at the beginning, thats is adjusting the shift linkage.
Then see if you have backup lights.
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 19, 2017
#55
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #55
This is a factory AOD car...

karthief said:
First thing to do is adjust your shift linkage
If it was a swap from a stick your problems mybe in the difference in harnesses.
Start at the beginning, thats is adjusting the shift linkage.
Then see if you have backup lights.
Click to expand...
Tha
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 19, 2017
#56
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #56
This is a factory AOD car...

karthief said:
First thing to do is adjust your shift linkage
If it was a swap from a stick your problems mybe in the difference in harnesses.
Start at the beginning, thats is adjusting the shift linkage.
Then see if you have backup lights.
Click to expand...
Tha
 
Reactions: General karthief

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,915
10,565
203
polk county florida
Mar 19, 2017
#57
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #57
Switch is on the trans at the shift lever, check the wires while your down there adjusting the shifter.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 19, 2017
#58
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #58
Drivers side of AOD. There's a 4 wire harness plugged into the AOD. 2 wires for reverese two for nuetral
 
F

Foxfirst846

Member
Jan 24, 2017
87
3
8
Mar 19, 2017
#59
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #59
Alright found the plug just hanging there and the harness that plugs into transmission... Question is where's the other part plug in?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,250
17,934
224
Massachusetts
Mar 19, 2017
#60
  • Mar 19, 2017
  • #60
There two plugs that come from the body harness to the AOD trans under the car.

The 4-wire plug is the NSS and reverse lights.

The two-wire plug goes to the Vehicle Speed Sensor on the speedo cable where it plugs into the trans
 
Prev
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Next
First Prev 3 of 5 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Check Engine codes jumping around
  • azactor
  • Jan 9, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
184
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Jan 10, 2026
gkomo
Electrical Issues with my 2006 mustang gt
  • VerneVdV
  • May 22, 2026
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech
Replies
0
Views
86
2005 - 2009 Specific Tech May 22, 2026
VerneVdV
J
Emission problems
  • jls.zmmr
  • Feb 5, 2026
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
2
Views
243
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Feb 7, 2026
AeroCoupe
T
2002 V6 3.8L Help Me
  • TheIncompetentMechanic
  • Apr 4, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2 3
Replies
50
Views
799
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- May 12, 2026
TheIncompetentMechanic
T
C
Drivetrain T-5 transmission issue
  • Ch3No2
  • Jul 11, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
373
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 18, 2025
2000xp8
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?