Chrome Alternator Fried

94GTLaserRC

Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my
15 Year Member
:bang: :bang:
This thing is only 10 months old....

I was driving home, about 5 miles away and I turned the A/C off to drive with the windows open..I smelled what seamed like fuel coming from the vents, when I turned the A/C off....I figured it was a truck or something near me.

The CD flickered on/off a couple times... I thought it was maybe the CD itself.

When I got home and pulled in the driveway, I realized the smell was the same as when the ALT fried in FEB. I looked at it and didnt see anything that looked burned, but there was a slight funny smell. I started the car and revved it..and NO voltage change. :mad:

Called ALterstart (Ebay seller ) and they said the "LIFETIME" :bs: warranty did NOT include "burning" only the parts inside. ANYHOW, they said if I send it back and pay the S/H both ways, they will look at it to see if the warranty will cover it.

Wires look ok and As of now, it's still to warm to mess with, and Im heading out to church now. Is there anything else to check or is this it?

I will NOT put an ugly stock ALT back in after seeing the chromer in there.

RC


(note: all I have is an after market CD (no extra power boosters) and a basic car alarm...and the ALT is rated at 160A. The car was only about 200* when it happened)

THANKS
 
Get your new alternator and then head down to the alternator shop. Have them check the voltage regulator. It may be over boosting the thing.

My experience with chrome alternators has been less than pleasant (this was on one of my old trucks). The best solution was to obtain a new oem unit and take it apart. I then sent the frame in to get chromed and then put all the guts back in it.
 
donjohn said:
i guess it would be a pain to take out all the guts like baglock said, but sweat for shine. does that rhyme?

It's actually pretty easy to do. Matter of fact, if you want to supply me with the alternator RC, I'll strip it and chrome it or powdercoat it locally. You pay shipping and the cost for whatever coating you want.
 
BlueOvalStangGT said:
Could you take the internals of the stocker and put it in the chrome housing?

Actually, you should be able to. Sometimes it's the simple solution right in front that you don't see.

Anyways, if the company doesn't honor the warranty, be sure to have them send it back.
 
First of Dan, what is an "Alternator shop" :shrug:

Second, I was thinking after I left for church and posted this, what Kevin said..and that was to use the chrome case with a new one..

NOW....where would the best place to go be to get one I could change out?

I do have to send it back and see if it would be covered first. Im required to send the money for return postage when I send it, so they WILL return it if not covered.

Thanks
RC
 
That sucks Rob. I polished mine, and powdercoated my buddies. Both of which I took to an "alternator shop" and had new bearing put in them. They are both the stock alternators BTW. The chrome does look good though.
 
Here's a pic of the one I powdercoated for my friend...

charliesalternator.jpg
 
RC,

An "alternator shop" is a shop that works on alternators, duh. ;)

I would be surprised if you didn't have an alternator/starter shop in so.fl. It's basically just a shop that deals specifically with those two devices. The local shop (when I lived in AZ) would rebuild (and rewind) an alternator for about $15. I sent so much business their way that we worked out a deal and the became a sponsor for my race car at the time.

If you can find a dedicated shop, it might be the way to go for you. Specialization usually drops the price by a significant amount.
 
Killercanary said:
Rob, the V6 cars had the same 130amp alternator as the GT's. We got one off of a 94V6 in my dad's 91GT.

AWESOME!!

Now I can slap that one on there for now, pending the outcome of the warranty on the chrome.. Jose said I could just keep that one, so if the war. is no good, Ill just switch it out.

NOW, what is the thing Dan referred to as "checking voltage regulator" as a cause?

Do I do that myself, or take it somewhere.

Thanks all...
Ill check the replies in the AM..
RC
 
94GTLaserRC said:
NOW, what is the thing Dan referred to as "checking voltage regulator" as a cause?

Because the alt is capable of putting out so much juice, a regulator must be in place for times when the battery doesn't need the power. This keeps the battery from being overcharged and the alt from being overly taxed.

A quick way to get an idea of how it's working is to check the voltage across the battery while the car is running. At idle, without any accesories running, you're looking for 12.5-13.5 vdc. Now turn on a few accesories (radio, A/C, headlights, etc) and rev the engine up to about 2500 rpm. The voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 vdc (if the alt is good, you should be closer to 14.5).

If it's pumping out over 14.5 vdc, the reg is on it's way out. The worst one I've seen was putting about 18 vdc to the battery. I still haven't explained that one. :shrug:
 
are you sure it's the alternator?

correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you just disconnect all the connections to the alternator and check the voltage on the terminals when it is spinning?

if it is the alternator, I'd just swap casing, like previously said. Or if you want to go more in depth after they tell you the warrenty isn't valid, you can take it apart and do some troubleshooting yourself on it, you wouldn't have anything to loose.
 
baglock1 said:
RC,

An "alternator shop" is a shop that works on alternators, duh. ;)
.


And a "pencil" shop is a shop that sells pencils, but I have never seen one of these around town either :rlaugh: :stupid:

Jose gave me the Alt last night off his project car, so I will be able to switch them out while I send it back.

DAN,
I have a Volt meter for house outlets....is that what I use to check what you said, or is there a different meter for that?


Thanks
RC
 
OK....I just finished (was out with my wife all day, so didnt get started until about 4 PM)

Only problems were:

1. kept dropping the damn nut in the back that holds the LONG bolt on the bottom.

2. I loosened the chrome pulley with the air ratchet BEFORE taking the belt off (thought I was real cool)
BUT....I put the old V6 Alt first, but since the pulley on that is larger, I could NOT put the belt on to hold it, to take off the pulley, so had to remove the alt, and remove the pulley that way with the impact gun...but the pulley kept spinning.

I had an old belt lying around, so I "choked" the pulley with the belt wrapped around it and held it that way...popped right off.


Car started and volt gauge moved around to about o/r in "Normal"

The Chrome Alt has no visible outside signs of burning. Hopefully it will be covered under warranty.

Thanks again to Jose for lending me the dirty-old-ugly-disgusting-looking-but-it-starts-my-car alternator.
RC
 
baglock1 said:
It's actually pretty easy to do. Matter of fact, if you want to supply me with the alternator RC, I'll strip it and chrome it or powdercoat it locally. You pay shipping and the cost for whatever coating you want.

Sweet...a group purchase on the deal??? Im game... :D

I would like to do mine up or replace it this Winter...chrome or even the coating Paul used looks nice...

We used to have an old buck that did the starter/alt rebuild trick...he's gone and I couldn't find any one to do mine up, like a rebuild...I'm waiting for it to take a dump...
 
Its most likely just the "brushes" which pick the electricity off the coils(two brushes). Typically they are made of carbon, and wear out quickly from high heat.

I cant see why they would not cover something like that. Unless the company determines you over heated it, which with the blower in Florida heat along with a chrome case, i can see how that happens.