Classic Value?

none67 · Feb 19, 2004

cheak out the suspension too... i find a lot of people over look that, if you plan to use the stock arms, and that stuff make sure they are useable!!! i've learned my lesson, but for 1k CDN i can't complain.. blown tranny, engine, lots of rust, suspentions shot, cowls no good.. oh well i love her.

but i would say don't go any higher than 2,500 at the most.. Pak said it perfectly up there. 100 miles are a lot better than years worth of frustation.

mp67 · Feb 19, 2004

I don't have the breakdown of coupes but 1966 had well over 600,000 mustangs produced. And early 65's and 65's were not far behind. I'd say there are enough of them to walk away from this one if you can't get it for 2k. And looking at that engine, I might walk anyway. Without that hose on for a good length of time, its probably got a shot radiator and water pump. Now, if it would have been an original GT....

PS. just read the part about the owner being a mechanic and going through it. From the picture, there is no evidence that any of those bolts has been turned in years. And no self respecting mechanic would have rebuilt the engine and left it in that state.

Blue Jay · Feb 20, 2004

Well, I was unable to take the White one for a test drive yet again today because the bake system had some sort of problems that he is fixing today, so I went to look at the other one in the area.

Anyway, here are the pics of that one, I got a few more of this one, but I still wish I took more. I gotta start taking more...

My impression of this car was it was much more solid, and it passed the water test. There was some rust on the floor pan, shown in the second to last picture, but the pan was pretty solid (stabed it with a screw driver) and there was a hole in the drivers side of the trunk (Last Picture). Looks like the drivers side quarter and door needs to be replaced anyway though. Not must surface rust, and the unibody looked rust free.

Now the downside is that it doesn't run. There is a small plastic piece on the Passenger side of the Carb that is broken, and that does not allow the engine to stay running. We did crank it up, and if you hold the piece open, it will run, he said it was the throttle body, but again, I am no Ford Expert. He also said that there was a knock in the Engine, but it wasn't running long enough for me to hear it.

All that being said, he also has it listed at $4,500, which I feel is to high. I told him I couldn't see paying more than $2,000 for a car I have to tow home, and he said as low as he could go was $3,500. HE also said I was the first person to look at it, so perhaps after a few weeks he'd change his heart.

Blue Jay · Feb 20, 2004

Oh yea, and it's a 65 coupe, used to be a 200/6 from what I could tell, but has a 302 in it now. Also could be worth noting that he bought it 6 months ago, said that he didn't have time to work on it, and is moving soon. Could be true, but you never know.

none67 · Feb 20, 2004

way to stick tough man, my dad talked the dude from 1.5k to 1k even with my 67, so just stick to it.

take a good look at that blue one.. 3.5k is very high for a car that will need to be towed home and needs a new floor pan, new quarter panel and a new door skin.. remember its the body work and the rust work that is the biggest pain. but then again if the cowls are ok then thats something to look at.

don't give 3.5k though... look on ebay for a last resort if you have to, you can find some good deals on RUNNING cars there that you can drive back home.

dolfan87 · Feb 20, 2004

Blue Jay, pass on both cars. That car is going to need a lot of rust repair, along with at least a drivers door. Also the blue one still has the 6 cylinder suspension, and that will also have to be changed. I noticed it still has the four lug spindles.

I don't know if you would be willing to have a vehicle shipped, but if you want me to start lookiing around here (Arizona cars usually are fairly rust free) I will. You need to get a solid car...and I would just hate to see you spend 2 grand on a car you have to spend another 5-6 grand on just getting the body in shape.

Blue Jay · Feb 20, 2004

It kind of depends on how much the shipping charge would end up being. But if you don't mind looking around where you are that would be great, but don't go too far out of your way unless you just really love shopping for mustangs, which I guess is very possible. Carolina Cars tend to have some rust due to the humidity and the salt air close by, so maybe a west coast car would be a good idea.

dolfan87 · Feb 20, 2004

Is it specifically the 65-66 coupes your interested in?

Blue Jay · Feb 20, 2004

No, I am looking for that style, so pretty much 64-68 is my target, I would take a good deal on a 69-70 though.

dolfan87 · Feb 20, 2004

Ok, I will look around for ya. I think everyone else on here should look for you too. (hint hint)

Peace

LMan · Feb 20, 2004

agree, thats a V8 conversion, and you can bet your last dollar the old 6 cyl suspension hasnt been touched. Changing that out adds a lot of cost right there...pass on it is my recommendation.

Pakrat · Feb 20, 2004

Well, I for one am surprised it passed the water test if the driver floor is that rusted because it sure had a cowl leak at some point. By the general condition of the car, I'd be surprised if that item has already been addressed. Also, you say it was a 6 to 8 conversion. I can't get a clean look at the wheels, but it appears to be a 4 bolt pattern still, so it may not have been converted properly. Also, just FYI, both cars seem to have a single reservoir master cylinder, so even if you were to stick with the drum brake system (not a problem I have it still) then you should at least go to a dual reservoir system for a minimum safety upgrade. Also note, the heater hoses have been bypassed, and in a rather shotty fashion, indicating your heater core is shot. The body is pretty dented and rough with some bondo evident. I think if it has only been 6 months you should ask to see the bill of sale. I'd also inquire as to the last time it was registered. Often a quick turn around with little or no work means this guy might have been hasty in his purchase, found some serious issus upon closer inspection, and is now looking to pass the problem onto the next victim. Just be cautious is all I'm saying.

Pak.

geegee · Feb 20, 2004

If this was a GT fastback or "K" code car it might be worth $3,500 as a potential restoration project. Since its a coupe, with lots of surface rust (and probably a lot more unseen corrosion) I would pass. The cost is not the issue here...the issue is what it will cost to make it a nice car. One could easily spend $15K on it and have a car worth $10K or spend $25K on it and have a car worth $15K. The simple facts are this car is NOT as advertized, has had little or no respect and TLC, and is not a good project car. Look for another.

68converted · Feb 20, 2004

Wow, I thought I had a rust bucket on my hands. Sorry man but I would not touch those cars with a ten foot pole. If you want I can look around my area in Colorado for you. I did a quick search on the internet for cars within 300 miles of me and I found over 100. 40 of them under $4K. Keep looking.

I drove out to Kansas from Colorado to get mine. Paid $4200 for a 68 convert. that ran solid had a brand new top and very little rust. The guy originally was asking $6500. I waited three months and made him the offer. Good luck.

mp67 · Feb 20, 2004

pakrat, the shot heater core could have been the source of the rust in the floor instead of a cowl leak.

bluejay,either way, I would not give 2k for that car. There are too many coupes out there. Be patient. When I was looking, I almost settled on several coupes and one 71 mach 1, when I was looking for a 69 to 70 fastback. At least one of the coupe owners told me about a 67 fastback that had been converted to a shelby clone and it peaked my interest. The rest is history.

mp67 · Feb 20, 2004

http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/8/0/65755280.htm

Hopefully this worked. It is supposed to be an original GT with 289 auto. If it is, car is definately worth checking out. Good starting asking price for a GT.

Pakrat · Feb 20, 2004

mp67 said:
pakrat, the shot heater core could have been the source of the rust in the floor instead of a cowl leak.

Yeah, I suppose that's possible, but usually they tend to trickle for some time on the passenger side, not the driver side. If it was the culprit, then in my mind the entire contents of the radiator would of had to spill out to raise higher than the hump in order to seep into the drivers side and then it would of had to either been left unattended and stagnent for some time or have cleaned up half assedly to cause that much damage. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I think it is less likely than a bad windshield seal or a cowl leak.

In any case, there are better cars to choose from for sure, I'd keep looking.

mp67 · Feb 20, 2004

Pakrat said:
Yeah, I suppose that's possible, but usually they tend to trickle for some time on the passenger side, not the driver side. If it was the culprit, then in my mind the entire contents of the radiator would of had to spill out to raise higher than the hump in order to seep into the drivers side and then it would of had to either been left unattended and stagnent for some time or have cleaned up half assedly to cause that much damage. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I think it is less likely than a bad windshield seal or a cowl leak.

In any case, there are better cars to choose from for sure, I'd keep looking.

Mine actually leaked at the windshield. It could not be seen just squirting water, cause it would run down behind the trim, behind the dash, and under the carpet. Your right on the core, did not notice it was the passenger side. I agree on the passing of both cars, I posted a link for a decent prospect in his home state. Hopefully he will stay patient, cause those other two owners are a little too proud of what they have, IMHO.

Blue Jay · Feb 23, 2004

Well, whoever has been looking for me, I appreciate it a lot, but I went ahead and bought a car over the weekend. I returned to my roots and bought a All original numbers matching 72 Cutlass. I found a good deal, and I know a lot more about these cars than mustangs, so I pulled the trigger. Maybe my next project will be a Mustang, but this car was in too good of condition and at the right price, I just couldn't pass it up. Again, thank you guys, you have all been really helpful.

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