Cleaning Egr Passage

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
Jul 13, 2005
325
1
19
Granger, IA
I have been fighting the code 33 for it seems like forever and finally broke down and got a new egr valve. The car needed it anyways after like 130000 so i am slowly replacing parts just to keep things fresh. Well I checked the codes after leaving the battery disconnected, reseting idle, etc. and it still comes up with 33. I get 44 and 94 but that is a given since I have no smog connection anymore. Is there a way to clean out the whole egr passage or any other suggestions to fixing my prob? Thanks guys
 
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I have been fighting the code 33 for it seems like forever and finally broke down and got a new egr valve. The car needed it anyways after like 130000 so i am slowly replacing parts just to keep things fresh. Well I checked the codes after leaving the battery disconnected, reseting idle, etc. and it still comes up with 33. I get 44 and 94 but that is a given since I have no smog connection anymore. Is there a way to clean out the whole egr passage or any other suggestions to fixing my prob? Thanks guys

you can remove the egr spacer and clean it with brake parts cleaner if it has alot of carbon build up.
 
yeah i got vaccum if I pull the line from the manifold. I thought maybe it was the regulator that is on the passenger side shock tower. Boy I wish it was easy to get the egr taken out, but where i am it's a pita to find a place to burn a chip or anything. I guess the next step might be to get a tuning system. any suggestions?
 
I picked up something a while back that I plugged into my wire harness in place of my egr valve that feeds the computer signal as if the valve was opening and closing as it should be but your valve actually stays shut (never really liked the idea of pumpin nasty ole exhaust back into my motor anyhow :) ) Worked for me, no more codes or check engine light.
 
I picked up something a while back that I plugged into my wire harness in place of my egr valve that feeds the computer signal as if the valve was opening and closing as it should be but your valve actually stays shut (never really liked the idea of pumpin nasty ole exhaust back into my motor anyhow :) ) Worked for me, no more codes or check engine light.


Except when you trick the computer into thinking the EGR is working, it pulls fuel and you run lean and causes detonation.

It's actually worse than leaving the EGR off and check engine line on since the engine runs it's fuel curves a little more conservative.

To properly use that EGR simulator, you need a tune/chip. Unless you plan on going that far, leave the EGR functional.
 
Ahh I see, thanks for the info. Have an air/fuel mixture gauge and havn't seen anything yet but also only have about 40 miles on the motor so havn't gotten on it yet so wouldn't know if it leans out bad under heavy load.