clevland intake question

I've always used end seals except when the gasket set didn't include them, And NEVER had problems with them. But I guess after 30 years of using them, I'm just a novice. Besides, who has time to go around the pits at a race just to check to see who's using them and who's not I always found more entertaining things to do at the races than look for missing intake end seals

i had the simular problem with my 72 mach 1 351 cleveland 4barrel carb, and i found out that it was my distributor, but if you need try both vaccum's on the carb.

The end seals on 351C intakes must be a fairly common problem. I've seen several threads about this. Some people say to peen the ends of the block and use cork gaskets on the ends. Some people say to put down a small amount of RTV and let it skin over before bolting the intake down. I'm sure that there are several methods that will work. The main caution I've heard is that too much RTV is a really bad thing. I think that letting the RTV cure a little helps prevent the seals from moving.

However, if you're installing everything per the manufacturer's recommendations and the end seals aren't getting compressed - I would be inclined to call the manufacturer and complain. I know it sucks to wait to install your new part.

If you really want to do it now, I think you should try D.Hearne's suggestion.

Most intakes tell you not to bother with the end gaskets anymore, yet most gasket sets include them. I usually use the gaskets, as there is less chance of getting a blob of rtv into the lifter valley.

Also, once while doing the bead and not using gaskets, a big bubble was in the rtv and didn't pop until torqueing, and it was on the backside so I couldn't see it. It leaked substantially, so I have been using the gaskets since. I wish they would make them out of rubber, though. I don't much like cork gaskets.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/general_instr/general_instr.html

Here's the link to Edelbrock's page for manifold installation instructions, has all the info you should need.

One good thing that Felpro has done for the cork seals lately is to apply an adhesive to the bottom sides to stick them to the block. I'd also prefer a better rubber seal, but the cork will do now that they've fixed the "walking" problem.

To help locate the Cleveland gaskets, you can use the factory 2" long carb studs in the center four intake bolt holes. Same thing also works on the small blocks, except they can be used in any position.

I use the end seals as well on my motors and haven't had a problem. I did really like the rubber ones on my 460.

So I guess that makes me a novice as well?