Drivetrain Clutch Adjustment After Quadrant Install

The odds are that the cable did not seat all the way in the firewall adjuster. Re-read the installation instructions and see it there is a spacer or something in the firewall adjuster or cable that you need to remove.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable. With a non adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40



http://www.steeda.com/images/watermarked/1/detailed/7/ford-racing-mustang-v8-and-v6-topside-clutch-adjuster-79-04-161-m-7554-a.jpg

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt
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asandhu said:

There were no instructions but the rubber part of the cable is touching the spinning part of the adjuster so it looks like it's all the way in, and I did file down the tabs that were on it too.
You mention that "Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage.". This sounds like what I'm experiencing..is this a bad thing or intended?

Click to expand...

A firewall adjuster and an OEM length cable require a 2 or 3 hook quadrant. The cable end goes in the middle hook.

Put the cable end in the end hook closest to the driver and the clutch will not engage and you will have slippage.

The third hook is probably just for show; I haven't heard that anyone uses it.

To get around the single hook quadrant problem you can use a Maximum Motorsports extra length cable or a Ford Racing adjustable cable. See http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-Clutch-Cable-Universal-Mustang-Ford-OEM-1982-04-P897.aspx for the Maximum Motorsports cable

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

asandhu said:

I have a two hook quadrant...

"The cable is installed on the quadrant hook closest to the firewall"

Click to expand...

See the picture and comments below for more help...

Crawl back under the dash and double check on that quadrant, sounds like the cable somehow slipped onto the first hook.

Something doesn't add up..

Where does the clutch fork stay with the cable off?

Could it be a worn out clutch.. ?

'cause I went thru the same thing..and in the end it was a worn ty clutch.

You said the rubber part is touching the adjuster in one of your posts. The rubber part is to be taken off the cable and the plastic part goes inside the adjuster.