Clutch cable problems, please help!

[astronut1885]

Hey guys. I am having major clutch cable issues. I've managed to go through four cables in a year. My stock one had stretched out really bad, so I bought a new one. As soon as I put it in, it got stuck and I broke the stock quadrant. I bought a Summit adjustable kit, and within a few weeks had stretched that cable to oblivion. I found out I was routing it all wrong, so I bought a fire wall adjuster, and put the brand new stock style cable back in that had busted my stock quad. It was routed what I believe was correctly, but it always felt like it was hanging and it quickly stretched to a point where it was useless. That was an Autozone cable. The other day I replaced that cable with a NAPA cable, and again it feels weird. I have it routed so it comes out of the firewall, attaches to the fender where it should, and then goes down near the steering rack. It runs right along side the oil pan over the K member, and goes to the mount on the bellhousing. The cable feels like it's majorly hanging on something, like the insulator sheath that covers it. It's noisy as hell and tight as a mofo. When the car heats up good, the cable becomes more free to move and doesn't hang and feel notchty, but it still feels tight. I took it off the quadrant last night and checked the pedals, and they're fine. I checked the routing and it's not really touching anything. I have the FRPP heavy duty clutch, and I know it's notoriously heavy, but this is rediculous. If anyone knows why I am killing cables, and how to fix this one before it stretches, please let me know.

 

[jerry beach]

Look at the cable where it attaches to the inner fender with the metal bracket. How close to the header is it? Mine had a good 1 1/2" of clearance there, but when I went with the Steeda cable it came with a longer bracket which put it 1/2" from the header. I bent it so that I have about an inch, and I have had no problems.

Check down where it attaches to the clutch fork, many have installed it wrong there. The "ball shaped" nut should contact the back of the clutch fork, then the jam nut should be behind that one. I would take the cable loose from both ends, you can leave it in the car, and work it with your fingers. It should move freely. If it does then its not the cable thats at fault. I hung my cable up for hours before intalling it and sprayed white lithium grease from an aerosol can into the housing. If it is your cable thats binding, try to find out where its binding. I would get one from ford if I was sure the cable was my problem.

 

[HISSIN50]

nicely put, Jerry!

ill add. be sure the alignment from the quadrant to the firewall is right on - if not, it can create a tighter pedal (though it sounds like you have other issues - follow Jerry on that. this is for later).

and be sure your grounds are up to par - if not the clutch, etc cables will try to act as grounds. not good.

good luck.

 

[blk92stangg]

How is your clutch fork and pivot ball? Also, how is your throwout bearing retainer? How long have you had the HD clutch in there? Sheathed cables can handle reasonable bends, so barring manufactuing defects and extreme bends in the cable, it sounds like something else may be contributing to your hard clutch and notchy pedal feel. You can also try shooting lithium grease down the cable to see if it helps at all.

 

[astronut1885]

I'm going to get some lithium grease tomorrow and see if it helps. There's a brand new steel throwout bearing retainer in there that went in with the clutch in march. The throwout bearing was always iffy, but it's new. It just makes a little noise. I'm going to disassemble everything amd see what I can find as soon as I have some time.

 

[stangbear427]

What they all said. However, I think your main problem is your choice of cables. You CANNOT expect a AutoZoo or NAPA cable to hold up to a performance clutch, it just isn't going to happen. Junk. Get an OEM Ford cable, and watch your troubles evaporate. It's gonna cost you more, but it will work better and last longer than 10 AutoBone ones, and at $20 a pop, you aren't saving anything. I burned up an AutoZone cable in three days once, because I broke an old stock one and needed something to drive until the good one came in the mail. You get what you pay for, and local chain store cables are nothing but a spare tire to get you out of a jamb.

 

[astronut1885]

Well, a friend has been running a NAPA one for a while, and he likes it. I went to Ford first, they wanted 130.00 for a cable, and it wouldn't be in for two days. I was stuck with a barely shiftable car thanks to the cable on it. I'm going to try and straighten this thing out, and if I can't, I'll order an OEM cable.

 

[Ourobos]

I had trouble with my routing and routher on top of the motor mount, and it was great. Try that maybe. The adjustable cables are mostly junk.

 

[astronut1885]

It's a non adjustable cable. Routing over the motor mount would cause it to curve too sharply, no? Mine goes right along side the oil pan.

 

[ratrapp]

i've had my bbk adjustable setup for almost a year now and it hasn't broke.check your quadrant alignment.even with a ford cable you may get a little longer life but if it eventually breaks then check the quad alignment.

 

[stangbear427]

http://www.buyfordracing.com/Shop_Cart/shopexd.asp?id=168

 

[astronut1885]

Gee, I wonder why the dealership charged 100.00 more???

 

[stangbear427]

Because they can, and because they suck.

 

[CRASH7772]

UPR sells a 3pc kit with heavy duty cable for $85. I just put a D/F centerforce clutch with my Tremec and I don't think the quadrant and cable are going to last. Really looking at the UPR kit, seems like nice quality and price.

 

[stangbear427]

It is... except the cable. Better than some, but still not as good as an OEM. The billet quadrant and fw adjuster though:

 

[astronut1885]

Well, I don't know how, but I fixed it. I came home the other night, and was really pissed off at the cable. I took it off the quadrant, and tested the pedals. It felt nice and loose, like it should, but I WD40'd it anyway. Then I pulled the cable out of the firewall, and just kinda moved it in and out a little. The cable felt fine, so I pulled on it hard, like i was trying to disengage the clutch. That's when I felt the notchyness I had been getting dogged by. I kept doing it, and figured that I had a bogus throw out bearing. I shot a little WD down the cable sheath to make sure it was lubed and put it all back together. As soon as I adjusted the cable, I got in the car and felt the clutch. It was awesome. Super smooth, and right where it should be. The T/O bearing is making a little noise, so I'm sure it's still iffy, but atleast now I can shift without standing on the pedal.