clutch cable

DDSTANG94

New Member

Dec 9, 2006

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FRASER, MICHIGAN

Mar 10, 2008

#1

• Mar 10, 2008

• #1

I have a mm cable, fwa ,and quad and i think the cable might be binding? when i push the clutch in or let it out if feels like "notchy" or "springy" do u guys know what im sayin? how should i rout the cable, its pritty long so do anyone have a pic of how they routed it? Also how much freeplay in the pedal....my gears are all notchy on a brand new t5

 

HISSIN50

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Mar 10, 2008

#2

• Mar 10, 2008

• #2

Adjust it so there is zero lash (no freeplay but no preload). I almost have to use an assistant to turn the FWA while I feel the lash in the cable at the clutch fork. Otherwise, I cant tell exactly when there's no lash.

Route the cable away from exhaust and in as big a loop as you can. Some go above the motor mount and this can cause binding.

Good luck.

 

parchisi

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Apr 13, 2006

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New Mexico

Mar 10, 2008

#3

• Mar 10, 2008

• #3

I know what you mean by that "notchy" feel. I don't know what to say other than keep it well away from the headers. My first clutch cable I got from steeda got to close and it melted. It had that notchy feel too when it was about to go. Also, one reason that the new tranny could feel notchy is that the clutch isn't fully disengaging when you depress the pedal. Try tightening up the cable and see if that helps.

 

94fordmustanggt

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Jul 8, 2006

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Florida

Mar 10, 2008

#4

• Mar 10, 2008

• #4

The only time my cable felt notchy is when it was about to break- some of the strands were broken and some weren't. Like everybody else said, make sure there aren't any sharp bends in it and it's not next to anything too hot. Make sure it isn't scraping anything where it comes through the firewall and that it's shimmed properly at the pedal. If there is too much slack in it it might not be aligning itself properly on the quadrant. MM says to tighten the firewall adjuster so that the cable is slightly loose- make sure you can pull the cable out of the quadrant a little way. I did that with mine and it's lower than I like but I guess that's how it's supposed to be. Too tight will wear out your throwout bearing. If your trans is brand new it will probably feel notchy for a while until it gets worn in some.

 

HGFireHazard

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Apr 10, 2005

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Michigan

Mar 10, 2008

#5

• Mar 10, 2008

• #5

I have the MM cable too and it is longggg... but it's the only cable that seemed to be worth using.

I took that bracket off my old cable and put it on the new one also. My routing wasn't too different from the factory routing, but it was a little bit different with the LT's and the tremec bellhousing.

I also had to adjust my fw adjuster a long ways out (pick up slack), but that was probably unique to my setup.

I don't, however, have this binding feel that you and others in the thread mentioned.

 

DDSTANG94

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Dec 9, 2006

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FRASER, MICHIGAN

Mar 10, 2008

#6

• Mar 10, 2008

• #6

HISSIN50 said:

Adjust it so there is zero lash (no freeplay but no preload). I almost have to use an assistant to turn the FWA while I feel the lash in the cable at the clutch fork. Otherwise, I cant tell exactly when there's no lash.

Route the cable away from exhaust and in as big a loop as you can. Some go above the motor mount and this can cause binding.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

so at the clutch fork it shouldnt be tight nor lose?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Mar 11, 2008

#7

• Mar 11, 2008

• #7

DDSTANG94 said:

so at the clutch fork it shouldnt be tight nor lose?

Click to expand...

You got it. It's hard to tell by the clutch pedal or FWA how much slack the cable has, but if you pull on the cable at the fork, it's really easy to tell. I just use a pinky to pull the cable laterally. Once I can no longer do this, it's at zero lash.

 

T

tderrick

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Oct 27, 2004

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Mar 15, 2008

#8

• Mar 15, 2008

• #8

I think I need to start over with my MM Quadrant and FWA.

I Can't seem to get my adjustments to stay. I keep getting pedal free-play and I'm
almost all the way out on the adjuster.

What's the best way to start over to get the adjuster started in the correct position??

 

T

tderrick

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Oct 27, 2004

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Mar 15, 2008

#9

• Mar 15, 2008

• #9

Didn't mean to take over the thread... they just seemed related.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Mar 15, 2008

#10

• Mar 15, 2008

• #10

tderrick said:

I think I need to start over with my MM Quadrant and FWA.

I Can't seem to get my adjustments to stay. I keep getting pedal free-play and I'm
almost all the way out on the adjuster.

What's the best way to start over to get the adjuster started in the correct position??

Click to expand...

If you are hitting an extreme on the FWA setting, another hook on the quadrant might work ok for you.

I have also shimmed the FWA itself, but that's lame.

I always like to have the FWA be almost all the way in (turned CW). The cable aint gonna shrink and it leaves lots of room for adjustment (removing future slack).

I also have a wandering FWA. I put a dab of ink at 12 o'clock on the adjuster and after awhile, the dab has moved. I cant crank the jamb-nut very tight though.

Good luck.

 

fastgtfairlane

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Apr 7, 2006

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Mar 16, 2008

#11

• Mar 16, 2008

• #11

you can check the gap at the fwa where the cable meets it. if you pull the cable away from the adjuster and check the gap. it shouldnt be anymore than 1/8th inch.