Drivetrain Sticky clutch pedal

keel

keel

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
201
68
38
Seattle, Wa
#1
My clutch pedal feels sticky when I let it out slowly at low speed conditions like reversing or parking. I already replaced the clutch cable which did not fix the issue. It feels fine when shifting normally and moving the clutch pedal more quickly.

I'm wondering how I can fix this, I was thinking that replacing the bushings in the pedal box might help but I really don't want to pull the pedal box without knowing for sure.
 
#2
keel said:
My clutch pedal feels sticky when I let it out slowly at low speed conditions like reversing or parking. I already replaced the clutch cable which did not fix the issue. It feels fine when shifting normally and moving the clutch pedal more quickly.

I'm wondering how I can fix this, I was thinking that replacing the bushings in the pedal box might help but I really don't want to pull the pedal box without knowing for sure.
Click to expand...
Pedal box bushings would be on the list...
Might want to check your fork and pivot ball for wear.........
 
#3
I would inspect the throw out and retainer if the cable wasn't the issue, the pivot bushing should be easy to notice with the cable disconnected and moving the pedal arm by hand to feel any slop. Cable routing can also seriously affect the pedal feel on these cars.
 
#4
I replaced my clutch in September of last year and the fork and pivot ball looked okay at the time when I was inspecting everything. Replaced the throw out bearing too. I suppose they could have worn or become damaged since then but it seems unlikely...

I did try moving the pedal arm by hand with the cable disconnected and it seemed okay too but it's hard to tell whats going on without load on it.

Is there a way to replace the bushings in the pedal box without pulling out the entire thing? Because the bushings themselves are super cheap so I would just do it if it wasn't such a PITA.
 
#5
Did you grease the retainer and/or has it been replaced?
I would try to get some grease or other lube on the retainer and the clips on the throw out bearing that hold it to the fork.
Prolly can be done without pulling the trans. Just a little, don't get all crazy if you're spray'n.
A little spray lube in the peddle bushing area could help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mindseye007 and nickyb
#6
I'll try a little white lithium spray lube and see what happens. The retainer was replaced about 5 years ago with a steel one, I did grease it a little when I did the clutch replacement but maybe not enough.
 
#8
I am not familiar with your build so can you tell me what motor, trans, bell housing, clutch, clutch fork, etc. you have? Pictures of the cable at the clutch fork end would also help. How do you have the cable routed? Should come off the firewall, loop around to the attachment point on the subframe, and then go back to the transmission mount/hole with no bends or quick direction changes.

I have a an aluminum quadrant, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable (all Steeda) and it works flawlessly. I do have to cut about 1" of the threads off of the cable so it fits under the dust cover. I have replaced the cable once due to wear and tear but I do not drive the car more than 1000 miles a year for the past 10 years so this one should last a looong time.
 
Last edited:
#9
I also have the Steeda aluminum quadrant, firewall adjuster and adjustable cable. I have a T5 mated to a 5.0 and an Exedy Mach 350 clutch. I have the cable routed about as smoothly as I can, I even removed the bracket on the cable to get a smoother bend.

I do wonder if heat is a component as well since the problem doesn't really appear until the car has some temp in it and I have long tube headers that come pretty close to the cable right before it goes into the dust shield. The cable doesn't appear to be melted or damaged by the heat though. It also gets worse the more I use the clutch too, such as in traffic it might be fine at the beginning and then get stickier the more I use the clutch.
 
#10
keel said:
I also have the Steeda aluminum quadrant, firewall adjuster and adjustable cable. I have a T5 mated to a 5.0 and an Exedy Mach 350 clutch. I have the cable routed about as smoothly as I can, I even removed the bracket on the cable to get a smoother bend.

I do wonder if heat is a component as well since the problem doesn't really appear until the car has some temp in it and I have long tube headers that come pretty close to the cable right before it goes into the dust shield. The cable doesn't appear to be melted or damaged by the heat though. It also gets worse the more I use the clutch too, such as in traffic it might be fine at the beginning and then get stickier the more I use the clutch.
Click to expand...
Max motorsports has a ' shield" for the end of the cable where it attaches to the bellhousing.... Its kinda funky, but I needed a few dollars for free shipping and added it to an order.....
 
#11
So I have 1-7/8” primaries on the custom headers in the T-Bird and the heat trashed a clutch cable. The headers are ceramic coated so they don’t bleed all the heat they could if they were just painted. I wrapped the one that is in it now with exhaust wrap and used stainless ties to secure it. Have had zero issues since.
 
#12
Things are escalating in a bad way... Drove the car again today after replacing the pedal box bushings (I found a youtube video on how to do it without pulling the entire pedal box which was nice) and now when I let off the clutch slowly I can hear clicking and clunking coming from under the car when the pedal sticks and un-sticks. Might be time to just say screw it and drop the transmission before I seriously damage something.
 
#17
I wasn't able to figure out anything from the outside so I decided to pull the transmission. Based on what I saw, I will be replacing the clutch fork, pivot ball, and the throwout bearing.

The throwout bearing had worn a pretty deep groove into the surface where it pushes against the 'fingers' on the clutch pressure plate. The fork and pivot ball looked like they were wearing badly as well where they interact with each other. They didn't seem well lubricated, not sure if that is because I didn't use enough grease during installation or if the grease packet that was provided with the Exedy clutch kit was just crappy grease.

There was also a ton of dust that had been caked on to all the greased surfaces that I assume is from the clutch. Not sure if that is normal but it definitely wasn't helping.

What kind of replacement parts should I order so I can get high quality materials? I don't want this stuff to wear out again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shakerhood
#19
Clutch fork P/N is E6ZR-7515-AA
Pivot ball stud P/N is D5FZ-7B602-A
Throw out bearing - just get a quality one like a RAM, Motorsport, etc

I just use disc brake grease to lubricate the pivot ball and then I use a very light coat on the bearing retainer.

How does your pilot bearing look? If unknown I would replace that as well.
Pilot bearing P/N is M-7600-A
 
  • Like
Reactions: Noobz347
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
1987 5.0 speed density Foxbody crank no start
Replies
10
Views
137
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Mcmahst
Mcmahst
D
Engine Throttle sticky even after cable replacement
Replies
6
Views
297
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
AeroCoupe
AeroCoupe
S
  • Locked
Drivetrain Adjustable clutch cable questions
Replies
6
Views
380
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Noobz347
Noobz347
H
Strange steering/brake issue
Replies
1
Views
33
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
squeak93
squeak93
M
85 Capri 5.0 transmission rattle
Replies
2
Views
107
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Mamaclean
M
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu