Clutch chatter & input shaft question???

cvgtpony03

New Member
Nov 17, 2005
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Maryville, TN
I am moving on to the drivetrain phase for my baby. It's time for a new clutch and flywheel.

I am reading a lot about "cluth chatter" for certain ones and that it is to be expected with some clutch brands(depending on how "stong" a clutch you get). Can someone explain to me what exactly that is. Also, if it is making noise is it tollerable for a mostly daily driver and how do you know if something else is wrong if it is all ready making noise?

I am also reading about people breaking input shafts (I think) on their transmissions after upgrading the rest of the drivetrain and dropping the hammer. Is that a part that is replaceable with a sturdier one? I have not seen just those for sale anywhere. I would go ahead and upgrade to a stronger one while under there if I could?

Any tips/advice/experience appreciated...Thanks...Ken
 
Clutch chatter is basicaly something like this.
when you start to release the clutch pedal and it feels like it grabs, releases, grabs, releases, several times in a short amount of time. Almost like a bouncing sensation of the clutch pedal. A shudder type feeling might be another way to describe it. Once it is engaged there is no problem. It occurs during the transition from disengaged to engaged. It sucks. It feels like the drivetrain is going to drop when you try to drive
Trust me on this. You won't like clutch chatter

And input shaft thing you stated. I think your talking about shift fork bending. Pretty common on T-45 car. I don't know if its common on TR3650 car. But i think only fail safe way to upgrade that is to get new trans, like TKO or T56
 
clutch chatter/shudder sucks royally! I bought a clutch set and had the flywheel ground by a local shop. Installed everything and the entire car would shake going forward or backwards from a dead stop but would be fine once you were going. You could hear it shaking the back of the car it was that bad. Well putting a total of 63 miles on the car, I took everything back out and there were heat soaked spots about a 0.50"-1" in diameter on the pressure plate and flywheel in 3 spots.

After getting the run around the shop that ground the flywheel told me to go out to the manufacture and have them look at it. Long story short the flywheel was ground improperly.... had to take him to court to get money back towards a clutch set and buying a new flywheel... installed all new parts and drove like a dream since then.

When a flywheel is ground there can be no difference greater then a .005 runout for every 1" in diameter of the flywheel. Mine was a 14" flywheel which would mean a max of .007 runout and I had about .011 in some areas.
 
mity2 said:
Damn! what did they machine your fly wheel with? A Cheese graver???

It honestly did feel like it. The car was horrible to drive taking off from a stop. After I got the work done there and started having the problem, people started telling me how they had problems with them before.... :bang:

The inner part of the flywheel measured about .005-.006 and .010-.011 on the outter edge of the flywheel. All's it would take would be a very very small peice of dirt or material to cause the big difference on the outside. The actuall manufacture of the grinders said it magnifies as it gets farther out.

I think I spent a total of like $410.xx for a new flywheel, after the original one was ruined, and the 2nd King Cobra clutch set, cause the 1st one was shot, and ended up getting $300 back and he took the flywheel to machine and sell to someone else.
 
I thought when I install my clutch, chatter was from badly machined flywheel. I took off the flywheel. and took it to another machine shop. But Flywheel was okay. So i got new clutch fet, and now she drive smooth.. Say no to SPEC!