Clutch Chatter... So Now What???

Mustang Jim · Apr 5, 2010

OK, I finally finished installing the new clutch, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing and flywheel. I took it out for a test drive on Saturday and I still have chatter.

I put maybe 10 miles on it before putting it back in the garage. Does it take time for the clutch to break in? The linkage all looks good and lined up. I've ordered new engine mounts as I have read that can contribute to clutch chatter. The rubber on the old mounts didn't look too good when I under there reinstalling the transmission, so that might be the culprit. It's a SPEC clutch Stage I.

Any ideas? I know I need to take this one step at a time, but this is frustrating.

65FBE2 · Apr 5, 2010

Check the Z bar bushings at the block and where it bolts to the frame. If the nylon bushings have any slop in them, it will cause chatter. Also look at the Z bar it self and make sure that its not cracked or bending. I also had the rear end get a little loose after installing some traction bars and a few hard launches. So check to be sure the rear U bolts are tight. It feel just like clutch chatter only worse.

Mustang Jim · Apr 5, 2010

I had the Z bar out and it looked pretty good. I replaced the nylon bushings, so it is not likely that. I will have a look at the rear axle as I have not even considered that yet. Thanks.

D.Hearne · Apr 5, 2010

It can take up to two weeks of daily driving to break in some clutches. Ten miles ain't even gonna cut the edge off it.

68conv4sp · Apr 5, 2010

My new clutch (Spec) was prone to chatter during the first several weeks of use. Two years later now, it will chatter a little if I have not driven the car in a few weeks. I find that with each more aggressive start, it smooths out nicely for the rest of the day. I use this as an excuse to accelerate smartly through the gears from each and every stop light/sign. Just for preventive maintenance, you understand.

482supersnake · Apr 6, 2010

Do you have a stock or aftermarket bellhousing? If you have a aftermarket bell you may have to dial it in which is were you check the run out of the clutch. I don't know a lot about the entire process but have seen it done and it can be pretty involved. You may need to pull the tyranny and bellhousing and get new block dowels that are adjustable. Good luck Scott

gjz30075 · Apr 6, 2010

Make sure your pedal movement is smooth. Disconnect the linkage and, by hand, push it up and down.

Mustang Jim · Apr 6, 2010

Well, I received the new engine mounts today. So, I guess I will pull the old ones out this weekend. I didn't want to put too many miles on it last Saturday with the chatter. Not that putting on a few extra miles would have changed much. I do like the idea of breaking it in. I have a stock bellhousing and the linkage was pretty smooth with no stiff points or binding prior to putting it back together. So, I'll on the new mounts, put some miles on it and see how it goes.

Question on the engine mounts.... Both the left and right mount look identical. They're stamped with a different part number, but they look identical. Is that right?

Thanks,
Jim

Mustang Jim · Apr 6, 2010

Here are some pictures of the new mounts I received today.

Mustang Jim · Apr 6, 2010

Here's another shot.

Opentracker · Apr 8, 2010

A torque strap will help and might totally remove the chatter. Our 65 coup had chatter after three new clutches and I was at the end of my rope. I put a torque strap from the drivers side head down to the sway bar mount and it was gone, gone for good. That was 8 years ago.

Mustang Jim · Apr 9, 2010

Thanks Opentracker. If the new mounts don't help, then I'm trying the torque strap.

Mustang Jim · Apr 11, 2010

OK, I installed the engine mounts this morning and, after taking it out for a test drive, I still have chatter. This evening, I made and installed a torque strap and then took it out for another drive. Still, I get chatter. Hey, it's not as bad as before, but it is still there and I am not happy with it at all. Next, I'm going after the U joints, especially the rear as that one I know needs to be replaced. What else???? Am I missing anything???? I don't want to pull it all apart just yet and I'm not ready to bring it to some grease monkey. Help!!!!

Thanks,
Jim

Opentracker · Apr 11, 2010

Sorry the torques trap didn't help much

Did you put some preload on it? I take mine past being snug. It pulls the motor down a bit on the drivers side.

Mustang Jim · Apr 11, 2010

Well, I tightened up the torque strap a bit, tuned up the car, tightened up the u-joints at the rear axle/leaf springs and then put on about 50 miles today. Well....

Little to no chatter in first gear now! What a difference! This car is fun to drive again!

Thanks everyone for your input.

Jim

Opentracker · Apr 12, 2010

Congratulations !

10secgoal · Apr 12, 2010

Awesome to hear. Just for anyone who searches this. HAd one that we couldn't figure out also. Set of Caltracs solved it. You could feel it for a split second try it and then the bar would hit the leafs and stop the chatter.

Mustang Jim · Dec 29, 2011

Here's a follow up to a post I put out there back in April 2010. I had some clutch chatter, even after replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and flywheel. I was able to minimize the clutch chatter, but it never totally went away.

Anyway, a couple of days back I replaced the rear u-joint, which I found had way too much play in it, and now all the chatter is gone!

65FBE2, you called it! I just wasn't listening hard enough.

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