CLUTCH (pivot stud) help

RydeOn

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Sep 26, 2000
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Guys. I am doing a replacement of an OEM clutch in an all stock 92 lx, 5.0

My question is, how many shims for the stock pivot stud in the bellhousing? When I replaced the stud, I noticed 2 rather thick lockwashers stacked together, but ignored it and installed the trans. But now I am second guessing wether this came bone stock from the factory like that. I did a search and I couldn't find anything but a picture of the stud installed with no washers and shims at all, so now I am really doubting its together correct. I can pull the T5 real quick since its just sitting on the crossmember at the moment, but I need to know the correct way to install the pivot stuff before I finish out the project.
 
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Repostyle

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Jun 11, 2005
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I just had mine apart and didn't notice any shims or washers. I don't believe they're supposed to be there. It just doesn't sound like something ford would do. My only thought is that the clutch fork is bent and someone put those in there to compensate. I would leave them out and try it that way first. If the clutch doesn't release fully I would replace the fork first before putting the shims/washers back in there.
 

GT_Rich

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Dec 11, 2005
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Wow - funny you should ask this. I just installed a Centerforce DF on Sunday (with a new fork and flywheel) only to realize that I didn't have enough throw to disengage (it was really close to being enough, but not quite). I took it all back apart and added two washers (total thickness about 1/8"). It already had a lock washer, so I left that. I'd say there's 3/16" of spacer in the pivot stud now (including lock washer). That change moved the fork out about 1" at the cable end, putting my range of travel almost dead center in the bellhousing opening for the fork. I took some additional measurements and found that if you are measuring at the point where the fork exists the housing, a fully depressed clutch pedal moves the fork ~1.25". So, since yours is already in there you can measure and see how close that puts you to the edge of the window. If it were me, and I had any doubts, I'd shim it some.
 

RydeOn

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I don't believe they're supposed to be there. It just doesn't sound like something ford would do. My only thought is that the clutch fork is bent and someone put those in there to compensate.
Exactly what I thought after putting it in. I replaced everything though so we are starting from scratch. I found some diagrams showing 1 washer on the stud and they all seem consistent with the 1 washer from 92-04 v8 mustangs. It's almost surely 1 washer for stock unless the diagrams were wrong, but I doubt it.


I always shim mine out so I can get the fork as much travel as possible. Better for powershifting.
Great to know, thanks!


Wow - funny you should ask this. I just installed a Centerforce DF on Sunday (with a new fork and flywheel) only to realize that I didn't have enough throw to disengage (it was really close to being enough, but not quite). I took it all back apart and added two washers (total thickness about 1/8"). It already had a lock washer, so I left that. I'd say there's 3/16" of spacer in the pivot stud now (including lock washer). That change moved the fork out about 1" at the cable end, putting my range of travel almost dead center in the bellhousing opening for the fork. I took some additional measurements and found that if you are measuring at the point where the fork exists the housing, a fully depressed clutch pedal moves the fork ~1.25". So, since yours is already in there you can measure and see how close that puts you to the edge of the window. If it were me, and I had any doubts, I'd shim it some.
Thanks for all your detailed input. This pretty much confirms the 1 lock washer that should be on the car from the factory. I'm definitely going to look in there while a partner presses the pedal, great idea. Sweet guys :nice:
 

jrichker

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Clutch Adjustment for stock and aftermarket setups
Revised 28-Apr-2016 to include need for longer cable with single hook quadrant

Clutch adjustment with stock cable and quadrant
There is a self-adjusting mechanism for the clutch cable. As the clutch wears the cable tension changes, that is why there is a self-adjusting mechanism built into the clutch pedal. There is a toothed plastic quadrant with a ratchet pawl that engages the quadrant. As you pull up on the clutch pedal, it ratchets and takes any slack out of the clutch cable. Mess around with the pedal or even bump it while the end that fits in the clutch fork is loose, and it tries to take up the slack in the cable. That has the effect of shortening the cable.

Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self-adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

You can use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet pawl off the quadrant teeth. That will allow you to move the quadrant to allow more slack in the cable. If the cable is too loose, pull up on the pedal. The ratchet pawl will allow the quadrant to take up the slack in the cable and lock the adjustment.

Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable. With a non-adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit FMS-M-7553-C302_HE_xl.jpg

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

575166.jpg


Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt
attachments\575167

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

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Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.[/url]