One other thing I noticed that may not be part of your problem. On my adjustable cable both nuts are on the back side of the fork. The small nut is a lock nut for the large one, and the large nut has a rounded end where it rides on the fork so it stays parallel with the cable entrance.
Thats 3 or 4 votes for the backwards tb?
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In the case of multiple entries the winner will be determined by noobz, who may or may not tell anybody.
No purchase necessary, must be present to win, bla, bla ,bla
If the throwout bearing was backwards, wouldn't it be screaming? The guy who installed the clutch cut back the bellhousing fork window a bit, so it's not binding up/has full clearance, and it stopped the clutch from slipping, but I think it's a band aid fix. I'm bringing it to another shop today, who is going to dig deeper. I still think the geometry has to be wrong, but hopefully I'll know soon enough.
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Thats what I think too. Only two possibilities I see,
Tb backwards
Fork mount ball miss adjusted
Past history indicates that most were nuts before they arrived to Stangnet.
Good theory tho.
Good catch. I totally missed that. It's certainly not what's causing the issue that is pushing his clutch fork further back that it should be. However, the locking nut is on the wrong side of the clutch fork.
I noticed that as well and brought the car back where I had the clutch installed. They ground a bit more of the bellhousing, which fixed the clutch slip. Now the clutch cable nuts are all the way adjusted out, so I couldn't even put the kicking nut behind the rounded nut. It has a single hook GRIPP quadrant and I do have a double hook Granatelli in the box and was curious if this could be worth installing. The quadrant is turned all the way “in”, so I have no more adjustment to loosen the cable. It seems to have the proper tension on it now though.
Any ideas? Should I just wait for it to slip again and forget about it for now. The fork has no free play, but the pedal does have about an inch at the top. The clutch is engaging higher than before, but the slip is gone.
I noticed that as well and brought the car back where I had the clutch installed. They ground a bit more of the bellhousing, which fixed the clutch slip. Now the clutch cable nuts are all the way adjusted out, so I couldn't even put the kicking nut behind the rounded nut. It has a single hook GRIPP quadrant and I do have a double hook Granatelli in the box and was curious if this could be worth installing. The quadrant is turned all the way “in”, so I have no more adjustment to loosen the cable. It seems to have the proper tension on it now though.
Any ideas? Should I just wait for it to slip again and forget about it for now. The fork has no free play, but the pedal does have about an inch at the top. The clutch is engaging higher than before, but the slip is gone.
The car shifts fine, doesn’t have any noise coming from trans besides clutch chatter when I feather the clutchwithout enough throttle. When I let the clutch out quickly without car running, I can hear the fork click against the bellhousing.
I agree. Doesn’t make sense. I think I remember the CF clutch I had prior also having clearance issues, limited fork play, in the same way. Might be a coincidence though.
I might just bite the bullet and have the trans pulled and get the sorted once and for all.
I might just bite the bullet and have the trans pulled and get the sorted once and for all.