Clutch Release Problem?

NewStangOwnr · May 23, 2009

I just put in a new T5z in my car after destroying the old one behind my motor.
The clutch has maybe 5,100 miles on it, it is a RAM Powergrip HD Borg and Beck clutch in it. I adjusted it so there is no free play and with the clutch all the way in the car will continue to creep forward.

Do I need a new clutch?

v8only · May 23, 2009

the adjustment isn't as tight as you think it is.

Lightly bounce your foot on the clutch. where it naturally stops is the disengagement point. Anything above the disengagement point is slack.

tighten the cable so that the car starts moving with the pedal an inch or two off the floor.

then bounce your foot lightly on the clutch pedal...as long as it has a little spring to it, a little mush then you're ok.

if the clutch pedal is rock solid the entire way then your adj is too tight

Rusty67 · May 24, 2009

Do you have a cable clutch ? Sounds like you aren't get enough travel at the clutch fork to disengage the clutch all the way.

NewStangOwnr · May 24, 2009

I have mechanical linkage, forgot to mention that.
As you guys know theres two adjustments, the top and the bottom ones. I adjusted the bottom but did not touch the top.

Rusty67 · May 24, 2009

I don't know jack or squat about z-bar type linkage but I do know you aren't moving that fork enough to disengauge that clutch all the way. I would go back and readjust everything again. Maybe play with the other adjuster. I'll pull my 67 shop manual out and see if there is anything useful for you in there.

NewStangOwnr · May 26, 2009

I readjusted the top and bottom, it is alot better now, but for how long is the question.
I plan on getting a hydraulic clutch kit within the next few paychecks so hopefully I won't have this issue anymore.

NewStangOwnr · May 28, 2009

Same problem came back. I think the clutch/pressure plate are gone. Any last suggestions before I buy a new clutch?

jikelly · May 28, 2009

Dang, does readjusting it get you anywhere?

NewStangOwnr · May 28, 2009

It gets me around town for a day or two then its back to not going in gear haha.

jikelly · May 28, 2009

It such a pain, and expensive to replace a clutch that your best bet is to first put together a hydraulic clutch system to see if that's where the problem lies.

Course that's just my opinion. If your clutch is indeed bad for whatever reason then you will have spent money and not fixed the problem.

Rusty67 · May 28, 2009

If you had your clutch adjusted wrong and it was adjusted badly enough, you may have worn it out already. What exactly does it do ? Chatter ? Slip ?

NewStangOwnr · May 28, 2009

I had the clutch adjusted fine for about 4 months, then my syncros started going out and I had trouble getting it into gear. I adjusted top and bottom and it was fine for a day, but I think driving it while the tranny was messed up and adjusting the clutch to compensate may have burnt it up, and when I am in third gear it sounds like this metal on metal scraping sound, like flywheel on clutch lining.

NewStangOwnr · May 28, 2009

It was a pretty heavy duty clutch, the Powergrip HD, borg and beck style, rated to like 550+ or something like that.
Any suggestions for clutchs while we ponder?

Rusty67 · May 28, 2009

Based on what you just told me, I'd say its time for a new clutch.

If you were happy with the clutch and don't mind buying another one then get the same one. No matter how heavy duty a clutch is, if you have it engaging improperly it will wear out FAST.

I like McLeod for a good strong factory type replacement clutch.

jikelly · May 28, 2009

You know what, I've got a used MC and Slave cylinder from when I replaced those parts in my hydraulic clutch setup.

I actually had a problem with my clutch that caused all sorts of other problems. I thought it might be my MC or Slave cylinder that was worn, and the slave was leaking a little, but nope it was the clutch that was used up. Don't know if you saw my bad vibration thread.

Let me know if you might want the parts.

jikelly · May 28, 2009

Rusty67 said:
Based on what you just told me, I'd say its time for a new clutch.

If you were happy with the clutch and don't mind buying another one then get the same one. No matter how heavy duty a clutch is, if you have it engaging improperly it will wear out FAST.

I like McLeod for a good strong factory type replacement clutch.

I agree.

I'm using a Ram Muscle car clutch on my 73 stang. 700 or so miles of excellent performance so far.

NewStangOwnr · May 28, 2009

Thanks for the confirmation guys.
I think its between McLeod and Centerforce. I need something that can put up to alot of abuse and eventually boost.
I'm thinking these two:
Centerforce..or something like that
or
This one

Any preference on disc diameter? Do these sound strong enough?

NewStangOwnr · May 31, 2009

Anyone?

Rusty67 · May 31, 2009

What flyhweel do you have ?

NewStangOwnr · May 31, 2009

I don't remember now, but it's steel.

Clutch Release Problem?

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