Clutch Woes

Fatherandson5.0

New Member
Apr 14, 2004
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Driving the stang last night and realized that the clutch is a problem. The clutch does not engage at all unless it is completely mashed to the floor. Is this at all normal because I hope not. Is it time to replace the clutch and what needs to be fixed? Also, should it feel extremely firm while pressing it down? I almost felt like I was fighting it. Its a 1989 gt
 
Me thinks you need to buy a new clutch, throwout bearing, and get a new steel retaining shaft. You should get your flywheel machined while your at it. Your clutch is at deaths door. Get something better than stock. ther are many reasons. Expect 250-350 for a good one + the bearing. Then theres labor. 300ish?
 
Fatherandson5.0 said:
SO I'm assuming once the clutch is replaced I won't have to push as far for it to engage. What aftermarket companies make good clutches for street applications.
You mean disengage? It depends on what kind you get. Some clutches grab right off the floor, like the Motorsport King Cobra. Some people like that, most of us don't. SPEC makes a great clutch for under $200, that's got an easy pedal feel and holds 400HP. Labor totally depends on who you go to and how good they are. I know people who can do it for $100, and I know people who cry that they can't make money on Mustang clutches for less than $400. (this also means they don't know what they're doing, or they think you don't) When we did my last clutch we didn't remove the tranny or the H-pipe from the car, which makes it go a lot quicker if you know what you're doing. Definately get the flywheel resurfaced! Not doing this with a new clutch is one of the #1 reasons for drivabilty issues with new clutches. If you still have the stock linkage in there, that could be part of your problem too and for another $100 or so you may as well change it. Good luck
 
Legendary said:
Could just be your clutch cable. Mines did the samething and I had to replace it with an adjustable cable. Been fine ever since.

I agree. If you don't have an adjustable cable and aftermarket quadrant, I'd start there. Adjustments in the cable can make quite a difference.
 
stangbear427 said:
When we did my last clutch we didn't remove the tranny or the H-pipe from the car, which makes it go a lot quicker if you know what you're doing.

how in the world did you do that?

btw: I have a Spec clutch and love it. That thing really grabs, and is under $200, got mine from Partshopper.:nice:
 
You just unbolt the driveshaft from the rear, unbolt the bell housing from the block and from the tranny, unbolt the crossover pipe from the headers, and the tranny from the crossmember, and slide the whole thing back. It gives you just enough room to do a clutch/flywheel. I don't think I'd try it without a lift, but otherwise, you can't beat it.