Code 14: "Ignition profile pickup eratic"?!?!

[jaymac]

First of all, what else can go wrong?!?!!? (Iknow the answer: it is "everything")
Anyway, on my way to buy tools to extract my snapped-off water pump bolt, the car starts driving like CRAP, bucking, surginging, and even dying and sarting again (WTF!?!) under part-to-wide open throttle. When you rev it in park, sometimes it will miss and stutter, and sometimes die.
The vacuum readings are all good, no plug wires are burnt.
I ran the codes and got code 14, as stated in the title.
So what is the ignitin profile pickup? Is it the "hall sensor" thing?
How do I fix this?
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[jrichker]

The PIP is the magnetic sensor in the bottom of the distributor that triggers the TFI module.

In order to replace the PIP sensor, you must press the distributor gear off. This allows you to slide the shutter wheel up and out of the way to replace the sensor. Then you get to press the gear back on and align the roll pin hole in the gear with the hole in the shaft. A lot of guys just bite the bullet and buy a remanufactured distributor.

 

[jaymac]

just read some old posts (I know, I know, "search first"...)
Looks like it's time for a new dizy... jesus christ, somebody kills me

 

[jaymac]

OK, so when shopping for a new (reman) dizy, should I be getting a cast iron gear or steel gear?
Thanks,
J

 

[HISSIN50]

Wait for confirmation, but Steel is is needed for a roller cam gear, as I recall.

 

[jaymac]

roller cam being what I have, correct?

 

[HISSIN50]

Roller is stock.

I still worry and I dont have a great eye for this stuff (I am not great wtih metallurgy). I plan on stopping by a machine shop and asking one of the guys to double check the metals for me. I dont trust the stuff from parts stores (like some 5.0L vans get iron gears, etc. It would be easy for parts to be mismatched).

Good luck bud.

 

[mr_woodster]

had the same error code and symtoms, changed the dizzy (105$ after i turned in the core at autozoo) and all is well.

 

[jaymac]

so it is the steel gear I want?

 

[90mustangGT]

The pickup (PIP) is about $25, not too hard to change.

 

[TrophyHead]

Yes you need a steel gear. 100% positive. Since your have a steel camshaft.

 

[jaymac]

The pickup (PIP) is about $25, not too hard to change.

But as I understand it, don't you have to press the gear on and off?? I don't have access to that kind of stuff...

 

[jaymac]

last minute confirmations: steel gear is what I need, right?
(It's terrible today; buvking and missing throughout entire RPM range )

 

[HISSIN50]

The gear does come off (a bearing splitter would work for a shadetree type of guy). Some guys use a vice and a hammer :eeK: The hard part is getting the gear back on and lined up to accept the pin (getting the holes lined up).

I cant confirm what I already postulated. Good luck J.

 

[jaymac]

OK, I replaced the dizzy yesterday.
It started up the first time, first time that happened w/ a dizzy swap in my life.
My timing light is broken, I found out, so I couldn't set my timing precisely, but I'm gonna borrow my buddies today.
Now I STILL have to buy a drill bushing somewhere and fix my DAMN broken water bolt...
THEN I want to swap my T-stat because mine seems to suck. It'll always go up to about 210*, and yesterday up to 230 (!!!!) before the stat opens and goes back down to 180*, which is unacceptable to me, so I'm gonna see if anyone stocks a MR. Gasket around here......
ahhhh.....the saga continues

 

[jrichker]

Here's some help on the water pump broken bolt.

Here’s the parts list for the broken water pump bolts. Not cheap, but it will get you fixed and back on the road…

A word about the links, if they don’t work, do a search on the part number (P/N). MSC updates their catalog regularly, and the pages may change, but the part numbers don’t. You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html


http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1096 Use drill bushing 5/16” OD, 5/32” ID, ¾” long, P/N 07010457, price $8.57 This centers the drill bit in the housing bolt hole so you don’t get off center and damage the water pump, timing cover housing or engine block


http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=27 drill bits - use 5/32” Cobalt/TiN coated bit. P/N 78530433, price $3.91

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1928 Screw/bolt extractors. Use EZY-OUT Screw Extractor P/N 63760037 Price $2.67


One step specialty item: See Drill-Out® Broken Bolt Extractors drill bushing, reverse twist drill & extractor all in one unit. Best to use when the bolt breaks off with the remaining part below the start of the threads. .P/N 05027164. Price $18.33 each. You MUST have a reversing drill motor (either air or electric) to use this bit. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=19268

A long shank tap should be used to chase the leftover metal out of the original threads. Also recommended to clean the corrosion and dirt out of the threads before you reassemble everything. Cleaning the threads will help prevent the bolts from seizing next time (yes, there will be a next time).

Long shank 5/16” taps

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=279 5/16” pulley tap, 6” shank P/N 04801189 price $14.26

OR second choice, will not clean all the bottom threads unless you grind the end of the tap.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=2798 extension tap, 6” reduced diameter shank P/N 04701181 $16.17

See http://www.windsorfox.com for Stainless Steel Water Pump Bolts with Custom stainless steel studs. Allow the use of factory accessory brackets without hunting for obsolete parts or using spacers.

Kit comes complete with nine polished stainless 12 point bolts, four stainless studs and nine stainless oversized washers.

Price: $65.95

 

[jaymac]

hey, thanks alot! I actually found that list in a search and started compiling my parts, but I can't find anyone who carries the drill bushing. I want to try to find it locally, so I'll keep looking. I also don't want to push my luck by driving around w/ a missing bolt!!!!!!!

 

[jaymac]

One step specialty item: See Drill-Out® Broken Bolt Extractors drill bushing, reverse twist drill & extractor all in one unit. Best to use when the bolt breaks off with the remaining part below the start of the threads. .P/N 05027164. Price $18.33 each. You MUST have a reversing drill motor (either air or electric) to use this bit. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=19268

Jrichker, if you are familiar with this tool, do you know if I'll have to pull the waterpump and timing chain cover to drill out the bolt? Ideally I'd like to get tools that I can go right through the water pump and timing chain cover so I don't have to disassemble everything again.
Nobody around here stocks the drill bushing, so if nothing else I could order that from MSC.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

[jrichker]

Jrichker, if you are familiar with this tool, do you know if I'll have to pull the waterpump and timing chain cover to drill out the bolt? Ideally I'd like to get tools that I can go right through the water pump and timing chain cover so I don't have to disassemble everything again.
Nobody around here stocks the drill bushing, so if nothing else I could order that from MSC.
Thanks,
Jeremy

The water pump and timing cover should be left in place to provide a pilot hole for the stationary bushing to center up the drill bit/extractor.

Check with Sears - I heard that they have the drill bit/extractors, but may only be available as a set - #53153 ($60) or #53156 ($50). Keep in mind that you need a reversible drill, since the drill/extractor only works when you turn it counterclockwise.

I'm cheap, and don't have a reversible air drill, so I would probably opt for the drill bushing, drill bit and an easy-out.

Having enough room to do the job is the problem. You can count on having to remove the radiator for sure.

 

[Black1987Stang]

Jaymac since you put in the new reman dizzy has your bucking problem stopped or still there?