Code 157

[HGFireHazard]

Alright, I want to see if I have a real problem here or not. My car is running decently well after the s/c install. It runs rich right now, but not as rich as the first start, it's had some learning time. If I let it idle it won't kick a code, but if I rev it up a couple of times it kicks a code. Upon scanning the code is a 157, MAF below minimum voltage. I've searched and some suggest checking/cleaning the connections on the MAF. I could give that a shot first but the meter is new. Also, it seems that other people with the 157 have erratic idle issues and hard running problems. That isn't my case. If it is truly a voltage problem, wouldn't it be at idle as well? The 80mm is brand new, anyone have any ideas?

EDIT: I don't know if it makes a difference, but it's a memory code.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Clear all codes. Clock the MAF, meaning loosen the MAF, turn it a little retighten it down. See if this helps. I had the same issue.

 

[HGFireHazard]

I'll try that again tomorrow, it's getting late and my neighbors aren't very considerate of my car problems. I found out that my air intake was a little loose after the MAF, so I tightened that up, then things got worse. I unhooked the negative on the battery, stepped on the brake, hooked it backed up and tried to start. It is a real hard starter now, only holding the throttle wide open and luck gets it started, and you have to keep your foot on the throttle to keep it going, or it dies. I don't know whether to get it started tomorrow and keep on the throttle a bit to keep it running and let it learn some more, and then maybe it will idle, or what. The 157 keeps coming back, and I'm wondering if the MAF really is the problem. Like I said I'll try clocking it tomorrow, and I'll also try cleaning it. I gotta get it running before the 24th, that's when my dyno date is. Any other advice, do you think I should contact the place I got it from and tell them my car is throwing the 157 code? Thanks for the help guys.

 

[HGFireHazard]

Well, I pulled my entire air intake off (that Power Pipe is a b**** to take on and off), pulled it all apart, and pieced it back together. I reconnected the wiring, reconnected the negative battery cable, and she seemed to idle good. I idled it without accessories and then with, and then I rapped the throttle a couple of times. Well guess what, the 157 is back again. It only seems to appear when I rev it up, and when I shut it off and restart, it disappears until I rev it up again. Now I don't have a Tamper Proof T-20 (I believe it's a T-20) to take the MAF and clock it as was already suggested, so I will try that as soon as I can pick up the part. I hope I can find one. If all else fails and I still can't seem to get it fixed I'm going to let this one go to the Paul's High Performance, they should be able to fix it. It's just getting tiresome, and I don't want to push my dyno appt. back. Hopefully clocking it works, but we'll see.

 

[HGFireHazard]

Well, I seemed to have kicked it. I took apart the intake again, pieced it together again, then started running the wires. I looked inside the MAF side plug, and you know those little rubber pieces they stick in there to make nice tight seals? I noticed it wasn't flush, so I pushed it down and plugged the connectors together. They seemed to go further together this time, and when it clicked, I heard a little "pshhh" out of my MAF. I started the car, idled for a little bit, turned on the a/c, rear defrost etc, turned it off, and revved it a couple of times. It seemed to be more responsive, and guess what, no codes! I was so happy that I gave my neighbors a small little hole shot and took it around the block. Hopefully this isn't temporary and it won't come back. Thanks for the input and help guys!