I'm also getting codes 173 and 177, these were Memory Codes and likely were the cause of my check engine light last week. The light popped on while slowing down for a light, and went away when I accelerated away from the light. I know I've been running rich for a while, so 173 / 177 aren't a surprise.
I've cleaned the MAF, which is a Pro-M 80mm (blue plastic housing). The wiring to the MAF looks ok. I have a voltmeter to test the wiring, but I'm not sure what the voltage would be at idle. Any ideas on testing the MAF?
As for the rich condition, I need to check for vacuum leaks too; wouldn't surprise me if I had a couple of split hoses. My gas mileage is about 10-11mpg on the street (driving like a grandma), and around 20mpg on the freeway. I have 3.73 gears and an AODE. The O2 sensors are new, and I changed them about a month ago just in case they were fouled. I reset the computer as well, but the gas mileage didn't change.
Any other things to check on running rich?
I've cleaned the MAF, which is a Pro-M 80mm (blue plastic housing). The wiring to the MAF looks ok. I have a voltmeter to test the wiring, but I'm not sure what the voltage would be at idle. Any ideas on testing the MAF?
As for the rich condition, I need to check for vacuum leaks too; wouldn't surprise me if I had a couple of split hoses. My gas mileage is about 10-11mpg on the street (driving like a grandma), and around 20mpg on the freeway. I have 3.73 gears and an AODE. The O2 sensors are new, and I changed them about a month ago just in case they were fouled. I reset the computer as well, but the gas mileage didn't change.
Any other things to check on running rich?
SN95StangMan
New Member
I just pulled 172 and 176 this afternoon- running lean.
Ill trade ya for it.
LOL! If only it was that easy. Smart@$$.
The MAF reading will vary car to car, idle setting to idle setting, etc. Mine's just a hair over 1 volt as I recall.
If that MAF signal looks ok, I like your plan to find any vac leaks you can. Also check the ECT calibration to make sure it's not telling the EEC the car is cold.
If that MAF signal looks ok, I like your plan to find any vac leaks you can. Also check the ECT calibration to make sure it's not telling the EEC the car is cold.