code 22 BAP vacuum line?

Clear the ECU first and drive it around until up to operating temp. Pull codes again and see what you get. Don’t swap parts just to swap them.

t1_5.0 said:

What’s up everyone!

My 93 GT is currently getting codes 22 and 54. Being in CA won’t pass smog with a CEL so I’m trying to get these fixed asap.
I ordered and ACT and a BAP in hopes that it’s as easy as old sensors gone bad. My question is my BAP has a vacuum line attached to it as far as I know it shouldn’t. It should be open to atmosphere and plugged at the vacuum manifold correct? Could this possibly be a cause? Also the car does have an erratic idle until it stalls out especially before it warms up. I’ve read that a bad reading from BAP could cause those symptoms.

Again it’s a 93 GT with a C3W. I’m currently at work but want to get to it after my shift.

Hope to hear from you guys and thanks for the advice.

Click to expand...

When you add a vacuum line to a BAP it becomes a MAP and a MAP is needed for Speed Density batch fire vehicles...



BAP stands for Barometric Atmospheric Pressure which is positive pressure and MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure which is negative pressure.

Just like how a weather station measures Barometric Atomospheric Pressure that lil black box is basically a small weather station under your hood..

When the BAP is high near or above 30 the day will be clear and sunny when the BAP is low near 25-26 prepare for inclimate weather..

If you have a Mass Air Flow Sensor in your intake tube you shouldnt have any vacuum line attached to the BAP and is a sign the vehicle may be a MAF sensor retrofit job so Id pull the ECU out and with a multimeter and a diagram do a continuity test on all the circuits looking for a short or improperly installed breakout box for the MAF wires...

Id also do a smoke test with a smoke tester......The smoke tester will reveal any and all vacuum leaks...Even an excessively worn PCV valve can allow too much air to pass through the system and throw things off so dont get thrown off by the fact it still rattles or rattles after cleaning because it may be non compliant..

On the California emission Mustang I bought a few years back it had an 8LD computer which is very very strict on the tune but those MAF retrofit kits they sold used an A9S/A9M computer which will cause you to possibly never pass smog if everything including the lil doohickie on the EGR isnt working properly or the diaphragm is leaking vacuum also your fuel injector pattern flow needs to be good....

8LD vs A9L



What I do is remove all my 02 sensors and dip the tips in Lemon Juice until all the carbon is gone which takes maybe 20 minutes then I rinse with rubbing alcohol and let dry out......The same method works for sparkplugs too but may need a follow up with a wirebrush. or a toothbrush...

All the lil things add up big when it comes to the overall running condition when it comes to a smog exam..





I remove the injectors pull the screen baskets out with a screw and soak them in a mixture of Mineral spirits and transmission fluid and buzz them with a fuel injector tester tool while submerged and after they all pan out flow wise using cleaner and a can adapter for fuel injectors I reinstall them rest assured theyre good or you can buy a new set of 19lb injectors off of ebay for like $30 bux for 8 versing paying $25 for the o-rings , pintlecaps and basket screen kit and actually save yourself some money.





Having one of these $8 wires from ebay and an OBD2 handheld is an awesome thing to have when you can read the engine stats as it runs and know what sensors dont comply...



Good Luck