Code 33 and 84 help

E

ebk06

Member
Feb 23, 2007
113
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18
#1
I just started getting a surging idle last week. TPS was bad so I replaced it and now Im getting codes 33 and 84. I've already searched and know possible causes but since Im at work I cant really mess with it right now. Im just wondering if anyone has had this combination of codes and if it was in fact the egr vacuum regulator?

I replaced the egr valve and position sensor about 1-2 years ago and have since only put about 10K-15K tops on the car (actually a lot less i think) so Im sure its neither of those things but will double check to make sure.

If I remember correctly last time I replaced these things I could hear the code reader moving the egr valve during the KOEO test. whereas this time I cant. So im guessing its not getting power, would that too be from the egr vacuum regulator?
 
#2
i had egr codes come up on a 95 escort once and after replacing the valve and connections it ended up being a vacccum hose the was dry rotted. check your hoses or better yet run a test if you have a guage. good luck
 
#3
ebk06 said:
I just started getting a surging idle last week. TPS was bad so I replaced it and now Im getting codes 33 and 84. I've already searched and know possible causes but since Im at work I cant really mess with it right now. Im just wondering if anyone has had this combination of codes and if it was in fact the egr vacuum regulator?

I replaced the egr valve and position sensor about 1-2 years ago and have since only put about 10K-15K tops on the car (actually a lot less i think) so Im sure its neither of those things but will double check to make sure.

If I remember correctly last time I replaced these things I could hear the code reader moving the egr valve during the KOEO test. whereas this time I cant. So im guessing its not getting power, would that too be from the egr vacuum regulator?
Click to expand...

Form the looks of it. Code 33 is the result of code 84. Code 84 is a circuit failure from the EVR(EGR vacuum regulator) solenoid on the back of the passenger side strut tower. Its the larger one, up top. Make sure it didnt come unpluged. Make sure you have a 12v source going into it. If not then the Solenoid is probably kaput. The reason code 33 was logged is because the vacuum signal to the EGR sensor was absent. So it wont open or close the EGR, the ECM senses this thus logging the code 33. :nice:
 
#4
Thanks. Im going to check the connection at lunch and I have a DMM so Im going to check the voltage as well. I looked at the hoses last night and didnt see any hole or tears but Ill probably replace them anyhow. All the other hoses were replaced not long ago and I rechecked them as well.
 
#5
Well the vacuum line going the valve had broke. I fixed it and checked the solenoid and it was getting 12 volts. But it didnt solve the idle issue. I dumped the codes again and got a code 44 and 94 and 11 for KOEO but no more 33 or 84.

I dont have cats or a smog system anymore so the 44 and 94 have been showing up all the time. I tried dumping the codes with KOER but it never would dump the codes. I tried numerous times and nothing.

I guess ill be going the surge idle checklist this weekend but if anyone has any ideas in the mean time. Perhaps the EVR is still bad? The car only seems to idle bad when I step on the brake and if I step on them hard enough the car will shut off.

Also I searched and couldnt find anything. Does anyone know how to do the TAD/TAB eliminator? I know its just a resistor but dont know the details. Since I dont have cats/smog system I figured at least this will clear the codes from the computer and maybe let me dump the KOER codes.
 
#9
Ill try that, thanks. I may have to recheck the TPS sensor. I think mine was set around .8**. Not sure if that would make a difference. I thought that would throw a code for low voltage though.
 
#11
So I tried the KOER test again and couldnt get it to work even with the clutch in. I started checking the voltage to all the sensors and solenoids I could think of and everything checked out.

On the way home I kept thinking how the syptoms seemed to get worse the longer I drove and how it happened only on braking yet the VSS (replaced it recently too) was fine. So after all the testing again I just went through with the car running and started checking all the vacuum lines AGAIN. I dont have an actual pump so I was just listening and feeling for leaks very closely.

Now since I had a good long 45 minutes drive home the car was still nice and hot and I think that allowed me to find the problem. The hose going to the PCV valve. The line is relatively kinked and flattened in the middle. Now this makes sense as to why the problem got worse as the car got hotter. The hose would heat up and weaken the hotter it got. For grin I yanked the hose off the upper intake and the rpms shot up to 2000. I mashed the brake pedal and the rpms stayed the same. I tried reconnecting the hose and the car would almost die instantly. But now its late and there lots of traffic and my other car is in the bodyshop until tomorrow. So Ill probably go in late to work and stop by the parts store and pick up the hose and hope it fixes the problem. thanks for the help liljoe Ill let you know if the hose fixes the problem tomorrow.

Its hard to tell in the pic below but the hose is pretty flat and caved in.
View attachment 231836
 
#13
Well the bodyshop called about my other car being ready to pick up so I had no choice but to leave. So I stopped by the parts store and got a replacement hose (not the preformed one because its a dealer item). It helped a little with the car dying when the brakes are pressed hard but its still surging, though not quite as bad.

Im still thinking its a vacuum leak so Ill be checking into it more this weekend. I may just yank off the upper intake so I can inspect all the vacuum lines under it.

I did try turning the code reader on and off a few times during KOER but knew it wasnt going to work correctly. Although it did eventually pull the same 94 and 44 codes and they were all "O" nothing "R".
 
#14
Codes 44 and 94 are not valid KOEO codes. They are KOER exclusive codes to the thermactor system, in which the O2's are used to verify emissions system AIR routing engine running. Also keep in mind that a KOER self test can take 3-4 minutes for it to run and flash any failure codes.....
 
#15
joel5.0 said:
Codes 44 and 94 are not valid KOEO codes. They are KOER exclusive codes to the thermactor system, in which the O2's are used to verify emissions system AIR routing engine running. Also keep in mind that a KOER self test can take 3-4 minutes for it to run and flash any failure codes.....
Click to expand...

The code reader I have listed those codes with an "O" so im not sure. Either way they arent a big concern since I dont have cats or a smog pump. Also during the KOER the instructions say the reader will start by showing the number of cylinders the car has and a flashing symbol indicating the test has begun. None of those things happen the reader simply just shows 3 zeros and never changes. Ill try letting the reader sit longer. I hope you are right.

If all else fails maybe I need a better reader or mine crapped out. Most places around here charge $90 for a diagnostic check so I may as well just order a better OBDI/OBDII reader for the same $90. I will be reusing it a lot im sure.

Im following the step correctly also. Car is warm, turned off, reader plugged in, car started, reader turned on, "test" button is pressed. yet nothing. :shrug:
 
#16
Ditch the scanner and follow the DIY procedure with a paper clip and test light (if the CEL indicator is not functional). I have a Genisys 3.0 scanner and some times I have to follow the DIY procedure to isolate problems that don't allow the use of the scanner. Just a very cheap thought, you do not need a $$ scanner to check the EEC-IV system for codes.
 
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