Code 67 Car won't start....help

[callys]

Having trouble finding anything on this code with a search

I have a 90 GT 5 speed with 73k miles on it.

I was driving from Texas to California and encountered monsoon style rain in Arizona. I pulled over into a parking lot, previous owner slammed my car, so I was sitting in a lot of rain. Car wouldn't start after sitting for 20 minutes. Showed no previous signs of struggling with starting. Luckily my friend was following me, she pushed me up to 10mph with her car and I bump started it to get it home.

At home I replaced the starter, still no luck. Checked every fuse, still no luck. This is the newest car Ive owned so I forget about the computer stuff sometimes. I ran the checker today in the off mode and it came up with code 67. Something to do with neutral start switch.

Where is this switch? How do I replace it? Any other ideas on what to check or where to start?

Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

If the car would not crank over (no whir whir whir noises), the CSS is a place to look. It's on the clutch pedal arm. Jrichker will be along shortly with diagrams and all that. You can use a DMM to test the switch's resistance. They also self-adjust and sometimes you have to unadjust them (or you have to put your foot through the floor).

The monsoon rains are cool huh. We recently had a spot in town get about 4" in just over an hour (the airport gets 12" a year).

Good luck.

 

[jrichker]

Code 67 will not prevent the starter from cranking the engine.

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto) or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests. You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine for the engine running tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in Neutral and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the diagnostics from being run when the car is driven. Key On Engine Running test mode takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground computer pin 30 to the chassis. Computer pin 30 uses a Lt blue/yellow wire. Remove the passenger side kick panel and then remove the plastic cover from the computer wiring connector. Use a safety pin to probe the connector from the rear. Jumper the safety pin to the ground near the computer.
Be sure to remove the jumper BEFORE attempting to drive the car!!!

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss &Stang&2birds

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

 

[callys]

Thanks guys is this the switch you are talking about?

How do I go about adjusting it? Or do I just have to replace it? Sorry about the big red wire that is left over from a previous owner's amp install.

 

[callys]

I adjusted the melon shaped clip on the rod so it is closer in and compresses the sleeve on the back of the switch all the way........and the car still doesn't start

 

[HISSIN50]

Did you check in/out voltage through the switch (it has to be done while the key is in the crank position)?